Exit 38 - Interstate -- July 11

I hit up Exit 38 with Joel, Jian and Jeremy for some climbing on Saturday. Everyone met at my house at 7:00am and we were off to the I90 corridor. Jian and I wanted to stop and get food to go on the way, but couldn't find anything open worth getting on 203, and ended up at the Safeway in North Bend.

Once we arrived at the Far Side, we hiked up to Interstate Park. After a sweaty 20 minutes or so, we were kickin' it in the shade looking at climbs to warm up on. Joel led Nocturnal Remission (5.8) and I followed. Jian had only got 1/2 way up on Midnight Scrambler (5.7), so Joel finished putting that one up too, and both Jian and Jeremy climbed that one... I didn't, not sure why but I guess we were ready to move over to the fun short 2 pitch route of Eating Rocks (5.6) and Insomniac (5.8). Jian and Jeremy went up first with Joel and I following up after. I let the first pitch so Joel could do the better pitch since I have led it a few times. While at the belay, we noticed Jian off route. He didn't bring enough draws to finish the route, so ended up at the anchors for Bicycling to Bellingham and brought up Jeremy to get more draws and finish. While he was bringing Jeremy up, Joel led up the pitch and passed them to the correct anchor. Jian went up next, and was about ready to bring up Jeremy as I passed him on my way to the top. It was a nice sunny day and quite hot at the top, but the views were spectacular. We rapped down the back next to the Block of Doom. It's a committing repel with a couple tough places where you tend to pendulum and it's overhanging where that happens. I went first and Joel followed without incident. Jeremy came next, and had a bit of trouble getting over the lip and fell a bit, scraping his leg up in the process. He made it down fine and Jian followed last.

We then headed up toward Eastern Block, but it was pretty busy from the middle on up the hill. I noticed a route right below on a wall and realized it was a small area I've never climbed before called Off-Ramp. It was only 4 routes (.8,.9 & 2-10.a), but all were in out collective range. We climbed all the routes there, with Joel leading the two 10a's, Girls Rule and Boys Drool. I led Hit and Run(5.9) and Jeremy did his first sport lead on Jersey Barrier (5.8). We all climbed all the routes and I will be leading the 10a routes next time I'm in the area.

After that, we went back up the short trail to the left side of EB. The routes in the middle and left of EB were being used by a "small army" so we just got on the fun traversing route, Impartial Eclipse (5.8) which I led. Everyone followed on that, then we set up a TR on Space Face (10c) which was fun. Joel made it up with a bit of struggling on the thin slabby face. Jeremy tried, but couldn't get past the crux, and I didn't get on it, as I noticed I blew out the toe in my shoes again! I've only had this pair for about 5 weeks or so... total BS. I am going to return these (Evolv - Defy) a to REI and not get another pair, as I feel they just don't hold up. We had an uneventful trip back to the car, with a quick stop at the river to cool off and wash up a bit.

Index - Lower Town Wall -- July 3, 4

I had Friday off, so I headed up to Index to climb with Dave for the morning. We met up in the parking lot and headed to the LTW area with another guy Dave knew (who's name I'm forge ting). We started off on P1 of Japanese Gardens which was pretty tough, but a fun climb. Next we moved over to Godzilla and gave that one a go. Another fun, uber classic route. I still can't make it clean, but I feel like I'm getting better at it every time. After Godzilla, we left the rope up and TR's Bat Skins (.11a). It was a fun traversing roof, to a bouldery crux move right below the chains. I actually had a lot less trouble on this than I was expecting. Dave did a couple laps on it, preparing for a lead on it soon. After that it was time to head out.

I came back to the LTW area on Saturday morning with Ashley and Joel. We has plans to climb the Great Northern Slab route (3 Pitches, 5.7). The scramble up to the start of the route was a bit spicy, but we all made it up with out too much trouble. Joel let the first pitch to the RR Bolts, which was very easy, basically a roped up scramble. I led the second pitch, which seemed to be the most fun. The pitch goes up into a corner, then into an awkward chimney move (we called it the beached whale move). Once through that, you gain two really nice cracks and work up towards the chains. The cracks take pro well for the first half or so, but once you get beyond the tree with a sling on it, the cracks get shallow and don't take cams well, so I had to find a couple good placements for my nuts... (haha, I said my nuts). I got the the chains and belayed Ashley up and then Joel. Joel led the last pitch, which has some fun run-out slab action at the top. We did a single Rap down to the top of P2 then a double rap down from there. There were about 8 people either at the chains or headed there when we rapped down... quite a Charlie Foxtrot (CF or cluster fuck for those who don't know the lingo). It was a fun climb and I look forward to doing that one again soon.

Exit 38: Gunshow -- July 1

I headed out at 3:00pm to meet up with Chris D. for some after work climbing at Exit 38. We met up at the Eastgate Park & Ride at 3:45 and were off. We had plans to climb at Gunshow, and after the short hike, we were there. We wanted to get on Endless Bliss(5.10a), but as usual, there was a party of two already on it, and in the middle of P1 no less. We settled on Elation at the Edge of Eternity(5.9) to the left and up the hill just a bit. I wasn't too worried about leading P1 without warming up on something easier, but the pitch ended up being pretty tough and I got pumped a couple times. It ended up being a pretty tough lead and I ruined my on-sight with a rest on the rope... weak-sauce! I brought up Chris to the chains, and while I was climbing, I guess Jim showed up and Chris brought him up behind. Jim ended up being a great climber (I've never climbed with him before) and climbed the pitch in under 2 minutes. He went ahead and led P2 which was good, as it was a bit spicy. It was sort of slabby climb on great rock, with a tough step up. We both followed up and rapped off. I think this climb was tougher than Endless Bliss, although rated less.

P1 of Elation

The party on Endless was still kicking and scratching away, so we did GS-7(5.9), a short fun route just to the left of EB. The crux of the route seemed to be getting into a crack and over a block. Chris led this one without too much trouble and I followed, cleaned and rapped.

Start of GS-7

While I was rapping and cleaning up the rope, Jim got on lead with Chris on belay and started GS-4(5.10b). When Chris and I saw Jim climbing and heard the grunting, we knew we were in for trouble. Once Jim was at the top of the pitch, Chris followed up and quickly got to the first crux, which was this open book sort of thing. He made it past that and then worked the second crux for a little bit before making it up. I was next and started up. I got to the first crux and had to really work hard to make it past. I was happy to be past that, but the second crux came at me all too fast, and I was already pumped. The second crux required a couple tough moves into a weird undercling move. I finally figured out the sequence with Jim's encouragement and made it up. I was pumped, big time. There is a second pitch that wasn't in the book, but was a 5.10c and basically a one-move wonder acording to Jim... but I can tell you the move was tough. Jim led the pitch with just a bit of trouble on the move, but made it pretty quick. Chris went next and struggled to pull it off, and finally came back down after 10 minutes of trying. It was my turn and I wasn't feeling great about my chances if Chris didn't make it, but I sacked up and gave it a go. After a few easy feet of slab, I was at the move. It was tough even getting into position to do the move, as you had to use and awkard undercling and bring your feet way up. The without losing balance, move your right hand to a very awkard sidepull that you could'nt quite get a good hold of, the move your left to a tiny crimp, still keeping balance. At that point youo had to get your right foot up on a chest high ledge and just pull up onto it. Much easier said than done, but on my third try I pulled it off! Up and over and soon at the chains. I was stoked that I made it. We got back down and I was very surprised to see it was already 9:00pm.

Chris on Belay, GS-4

GS-4

We packed up our gear and hiked back down to the parking lot, arriving at 9:30pm. It turned out to be a perfect afternoon and another great trip to Exit 38.

Sherpa - West Ridge -- June 27, 28

I was going to climb Mt. Rainier last weekend with my friends Steve and Josh, but we shifted to the back up plan (Sherpa - West Ridge 6 Pitches 5.4) due to a chance of rain on Sunday morning. Steve wrote a great TR about the trip on cascadeclimbers.com, so I will just post a link to his TR to save me from writing it all down...

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=891253

Leavenworth -- June 25, 26

After wasting two days of my week off (car issues and rain), I decided that even though I couldn't find someone to climb with I was going to head to Leavenworth to boulder and camp for a night. I was all packed up with my car camping essentials and Lilly by 8:00am and headed east on Highway 2. I arrived at Bridge Creek CG at about 10:15am and as luck would have it, I got a good spot there. I unloaded all the gear and set up camp. I was done quickly and off to climb.

I decided to hit up the Forest Land Boulders. I've been there before and figured since I didn't have a spotter, I would work on some easier problems. I did a bunch of V0/V1's I've done before and a couple new problems including Tahitian Moon and Moondog. I was working on Bad Moon Rising, a tough V2 slab, but decided against going too high, as the landing was slopy and I didn't feel like tumbling down the hill if I came off. I'll be back for that one with backups. The afternoon was progressing, so I decided to head back to camp for beers and a fire before dinner.

When I got back to camp, there were people setting up next to me. They were there for 5 days for a softball tournament, and turned out to be totally cool. They had a mountain of wood and a fully stocked bar with booze and beer... offering me all I could handle. Shots of whiskey and kamikazes wee flowing freely. We hung out by the fire... ate, drank and were merry. I stumbled back to my tent around 11:00pm. They were still going, but I couldn't take anymore.

I was up early and had slow cooked oats with brown sugar & banana for breakfast before I broke down my tent and packed up the car. I was out of camp and headed to Mad Meadows at about 8:00am. There I got on Woolly Mammoth V0, The Dish V1, Pruning Sheers V1 and worked on The Break V2. I will need a couple more pads and spotters before I send The Break. I can't wait to get there with some people and give it a better shot. It was approaching noon-time and I was ready to get back on the road and get home to pack for my upcoming weekend adventure, Mt. Rainier. Little did I know that we would change to our backup plan due to a marginal weather forecast. (Which ended up being wrong.)

Leavenworth, Pearly Gates -- June 22

It's been a while since I posted anything, but I've been having too much fun with my week off work climbing to get anything up here. Now that I'm back to work and into my normal schedule again, I can get back to it.

I had planned on climbing with Dave at Index on Monday, but the weather was not cooperating, so we headed to Leavenworth with John and "J" another friend of Dave's who's name is escaping me at the moment. We got to the Snow Creek Trail Head and hiked up to Pearly Gates. The Hike included a sketchy creek crossing over a fallen log, but was mostly uneventful.

Upon arrival, I paired up with Dave and we did a 5.8 crack (on the right side of the left area) which Dave strung together with the pitch above which was 5.9 and pretty fun. Next Dave cleaned a 5.9 J had led, which I didn't do... I'm not sure why? I then belayed J on a 5.9 crack and followed him, it was fun. I then decided to do a trad lead, and there were not many easy routes... none under 5.8 for me, so I sacked up for my hardest trad lead to date. The lead went well and I on-sighted my first 5.8 trad lead, nice.

Next J led another 5.9 crack which I followed, then moved the rope over to the next crack, a .10 I think and we climbed that to finish off the day. It was about 8:30 and by the time we arrived at the car it was 9:30. We headed off to the Munchen Haus, but it was closed, as was Gustavs. Damn! We settled for Ducks and Drakes for a quick beer and meal, which lasted way longer than we planned. We got back to Index at about 1:00am, and I was home about 1:30. Day one of my week off work in the books.

Exit 38 June17

I headed out to meet up with some friends at Exit 38 after work. I arrived at the Far Side Parking lot at 6pm and was at Interstate Park at 6:22pm. Not bad.

Upon arrival, Seton, Duane and Paul were getting on harness & shoes... preparing to climb. Before long, Steven, Josh, Marcin and a few others joined us. Duane led the .9 next to Ellies Sweet Kiss and I led the .8 to the right of it. It was a fun lead, with an interesting chimney move near the top... you pull up into it and kind of sit in there with your right hip and stem across with you left foot, then up and over a block. It's easily protected with a bolt right at the sketchy part, so it comes off pretty easy.

Next I TR'd the .9 that Duane had led. Last time I climbed that route I had some trouble with the start and getting up a blank-ish slab. Watching Duane gave me the beta to make it through the start easily and I breezed through it. Now it was time to step up. Everyone was looking at Ellies Sweet Kiss (10a), sizing it up so to speak; I decided to rack up the draws and give it a go, so up I went. The beginning starts off pretty easy and then gets overhanging by half way up the route. The thing is, there is plenty of bolts and many good rest areas as well as great hands. I just stayed calm and kept climb and before long I was at the final move to get over a roof, which was also protected with a bolt right at the crux. I clipped it and pulled the move... a clean assent. I was stoked!

After that, I ran laps on the .8's and .9 that were set up until 9:30pm, when it started getting dark. I ended up with 7 routes done, not bad for a few hours after work. I can't wait to hit it up again next Wednesday... hopefully I'll get a chance to lead Endless Bliss (10a), my next project for Exit 38. We hiked down by headlamp and I was at the parking lot by 10pm and pulled in the driveway at 11pm on the nose. What a great way to spend an afternoon.