Joshua Tree Halloween

I went out to Joshua Tree with Chrissy and met Tim in a parking lot outside the park. No camping accept Jumbo Rocks and not many sites there. A quick set up at 12:45am or so and then a few beers before crashing.

First we hit Echo Cove. The plan was to climb some easy routes and set up a TR for Chrissy. I led Chute Up(5.2) and couldn't set up a TR due to the angle and nature of the climb, the rope was getting stuck. Tim led Helix(5.2) and set up a TR on The Sound Of One Shoe Tapping (5.8) and W.A.C. (5.8) and I did both. The were slab face climbs and pretty stout. Climbing these hurt Chrissy's bad ankle, so we headed to Atlantis Wall in the Lost Horse Area. I led Solar Technology (5.6) and Tim led Men With Cows Heads (5.5), both fun routes that were mostly face climbs with cracks to use for Pro. We bit Tim farewell and headed back to get the fire and beers going. After discovering a mouse got into the great apple pie we left on the table, we made a fire and had pasta for dinner. Bed early to get ready for more climbing.

Sunday we ate and packed up, then headed to Trash Can Rock. I led B-1 (5.1), which is funny because of the sand bagged nature of the ratings there. Chrissy made it up, and then we had a fun JTree scramble off the rock. I then led Walkway (5.4R), which had an unprotected crux about 10 feet off the ground. The move was fun and the climb went easy. Chrissy made it up without issue and I lowered her down to spare her the walk off. Chrissy's ankle was done, so I led Tiptoe (5.7+) which got 2 stars in the book. It was a face slab climb with one place for a tiny cam, then 3 bolts. It was thin and challenging, but I sent it in style. After that we packed up and headed home. Another great trip to my favorite climbing destination.

(pic to follow...)

Malibu Creek -- Limping to Site 44 October 2, 2010

I headed to Malibu Creek State Park with Cesar on Saturday the 2nd of October. We planned on heading up after work on Friday and camping in one of the sixty-something campsites at thew park. As we pulled up at about 9:30pm we couldn't help but notice the sign with a bad attitude... ALL CAMPSITES FULL! Well this just sucks we repeated to each other... "damn, we should have made reservations" was another common thread of our conversation. Well we were 2+ hours from home, so driving back wasn't an appealing option. We could have driven back to LA to stay with Cesar's friend, but that would have probably led to excess drinking and a late start. I was also pretty much done with the driving, as the trip through LA, although it wasn't that bad, was pretty stressful with "skinny" lanes and lots of traffic. I suggested we check for a motel in Calabasas and we found our lodging for the night... the fine accommodations of the Good-Night Inn. After setting the alarm and enjoying a couple New Castles, we crashed with visions of on-sighting .12s in our heads. (Ha ha, more like 10s, but I guess you're supposed to dream big!) The morning came quickly and we jumped on the free "breakfast" offered by the inn... coffee and a few kinds of muffins, hardly what we were expecting. I was hoping for a waffle maker at least or some fruit... oh well.

We headed into Malibu Creek and got ready to hike in for some climbing, although I can't call what I did hiking... more like limping with trekking poles. I hurt my knee bouldering in the gym on the previous Wednesday, but decided to still go. I was dying to get into the outdoors (no matter what my condition) and I didn't want to ruin Cesar's day of climbing. I was lagging like a mo-fo... all my gear was in a bin since I was planning on packing up at the campsite the night before. Cesar waited patiently for me to get ready and get my limp on. Soon enough we were headed to the crag. On the way, I wasn't feeling great about my knee, and soon we arrived at the traverse around a small lake. Nothing dangerous or too difficult, but I was stressing a bit in regards to how my knee would deal with that sort of movement. Everything was going fine, although tentative, then we reached the crux of this deal which was a stemming move over water in a cove. There were decent hands at this point, but the thought of stepping across and putting all my weight on the bad leg had me thinking a bit. Cesar went first and offered to come back and get my pack in case I got wet. At least my phone and stuff would be dry if I fell in the water. With the pack off, I went across and everything ended up fine.

This put us at the crag we were going to climb at, the Stumbling Blocks area (I think, we didn't have a book). We scrambled up some rocks to where the climbs are and started getting ready to warm up on something easy. As we started unpacking gear, we heard a pretty stout rumble of thunder come bellowing down the creek. I don't think anyone around mentioned the first one or two, but soon it was apparent something was drifting our way. A few more rumbles then the rain started... a few drops at first, then it started coming down pretty hard for about 20 minutes. As we huddled beneath a ledge, we thought there goes our climbing... so much for 10% chance of rain. After the rain stopped, we waited about 30 minutes or so and Cesar checked some of the rock in the area... pretty dry was his summary. We geared up and jumped on a an .8 that was right there to warm up and get a better feel for weather this stuff was going to be climbable or not. I was anxious to see how I would do with my bad leg too. The plan was for Cesar to lead everything and I would follow and clean everything. (Thanks for doing all the work Cesar.) He made short work of the first climb... seemed very easy for the grade and I didn't have any trouble getting up this thing either. After I rapped down, I was ready to get onto something more challenging. Cesar jumped on the next climb (route and grade unknown, but maybe a .9?) and styled that one as well, letting me know it was a significantly harder. I headed up unsure what to expect, and made it up just fine... nice! We headed up the hill a bit and jammed through a short but fun .9 before coming back down and getting on a couple of fun but intimidating looking climbs on a steep arette (grade .7 and .8 I think). By now the sun was back out and the temps were in the low to mid 80's... quite a change from the morning deluge. By now my confidence in my knee was in full effect, and I was ready to get these done. Cesar led the first one and did a great job... full on sun in the face and he had done all the business this day which can be tiring. I followed, and noticed there were some tough moves for me as the feet were wide apart at times, which was tough when I couldn't high step with my right foot at all. I was able to get creative and do most of the work with my left foot and just follow with my right. "Off Belay" I say... transition to repel and back down once again. Now the .8 right next to it... the start was a bouldery crux right off the deck over a roof, with the first bolt up there. Did I mention we were on a small ledge 15 feet over a rocky creek bed? Yep. Well Cesar decided to do the alternate start which leads to the second bold, then lower down to give the start a go. He fired it just fine, although commented that on lead, he might have second thoughts. He climbed on and got about half way up before having to take for a short break. I think the heat and doing all the work started getting to him a bit. It was extra tough, because when looking up the sun was directly in line with the climb which made it tough to see the next holds. He finished up and got lowered. I tied in and decided to give the tough start a go, bad knee and all. Luckily there was no move requiring a high step with the right, so I made the crux without much fan fare before firing the rest of the line. After coming down, we decided to call it a day. It was getting on in the afternoon, the next climbs were a bit if a hike away and we were both feeling tired... mostly from the heat I'd guess.

We headed back down and across the traverse, which was slightly tougher over the stem in this direction, but my confidence after climbing all day made it seem so much easier than the morning crossing. While hiking back we noticed campsite #44 which was about the closest site to the climbing, plus it was close to the mobile outhouses which made it the perfect site. Next time we will be making a reservation and staying at #44 for sure. Soon we were back at the car and enjoying the cold beers I strategically left on ice for us. I nice way to finish a hot day of climbing. The drive home was uneventful and soon I was dropping off Cesar in Newport before heading back to Dana Point. Looking forward to getting back there to camp in a beautiful canyon and lead some of these sweet routes!

P.S. - I missed a couple posts over the last 6 weeks or so. I went out to Holcomb Valley Pinnacles a couple times (two weeks in a row). Once with Brian H. and once with Cesar. I led some 8s, 9s, and 9+s over the course of the two single day trips. I also TRd a tough 10b/c which took me about 3 or 4 tries to get past the crux. I'm looking forward to trying to lead that one next time I'm out there. Word.

The Tooth - August 28

Josh and I decided to climb The Tooth, so we met up at the Eastgate Park and Ride at 5am on Friday morning. We loaded up his gear and I headed up to the pass, which went very quickly. We arrived just before 6am and were on the trail by 6:15 or so.

The hike up the trail was pleasant and there was almost nobody around. Soon enough we were at the cliff bands above Source Lake, so we cut over just below them and up the gully, crossing the stream very high on the ridge. From there we headed up the main scree field toward Pineapple Pass. We reached the pass and scrambled around the backside to get to the start of the climb. I led all the pitches, as Josh isn't leading trad yet. The climbing was easy and there was solid pro almost anywhere you cared to look, not to mention rap slings everywhere to use as anchors. We were on the summit by 11:30 or so, and the bugs were crazy! We took a summit shot or two and headed down almost immediately. I think we did a total of 4 raps and were back at the start packing up our gear by 1pm.

The hike down the scree field was nothing less than treacherous. Hiking down after the snow has melted out is not a fun task. Near the end of the scree field, the inevitable happened... a rock shifted when I stepped on it and the one next to it fell right on my ankle. I was wearing approach shoes, so my ankle bone took a nice gash for my troubles. Without much else to do, I curse the rocks (damn rocks!) and kept going, careful not to repeat the action. We overshot where we were supposed to head down and ended up getting cliffed-out. We momentarily considered rapping down, but we couldn't see how far down it went, so we headed back up and quickly found where we were supposed to descend. From there, the pace picked up and soon we were back on the trail heading to the Alpental parking lot. We passed a few hikers on the way down, and got back at a few minutes after 3pm. An uneventful drive got us back to Eastgate, where I dropped Josh off. Another hour in Friday afternoon traffic and I was finally home... where a cold beer put an end to the trip.

Leavenworth - August 21, 22, 23

I headed out to Leavenworth with Chrissy, who came up from San Diego to see the NW and climb. We packed up on Friday and were in Leavenworth by lunchtime. All the spots were taken at BCCG, so we ended up at 8 Mile CG... not bad, but BCCG is so much nicer. After securing a spot (they were going quickly), we headed into town to rent gear and get brats at Munchen Haus. Both of those tasks went well, then we stopped at the store for snacks, beer and ice and got wood on the way back to camp.

Saturday, we hit some of the easier areas, so Chrissy could get warmed up. It had been about 10 years since Chrissy had climbed (in the gym in SD with me and Shawn), but she picked it right back up. We did climbs at Bruce's Bolder and Barney's Rubble, which she kicked butt at. On Sunday there was a little "shin incident" on the 5.8 crack at Barney's Rubble. It can be hard to get into, and she didn't quite get there. The mouse and scrape were pretty bad, but she took it like a champ. Then we headed to 8 Mile Rock and did Mickey Mantle, a tough little route, and she sent it. I finished off with a clean send on Deception Crack right next to it.

One last trip to Munchen Haus ended the weekend in Leavenworth. It was a fun weekend with an old friend from San Diego, showing what the NW has to offer.

Index - GNS -- August 19

I headed out with Tamber after work to do Great Northern Slab at Index. Traffic sucked for Tamber coming from Seattle to Monroe, but we were loaded up quickly and headed east on the 2 at about 5:15 or so.

We arrived in short order and geared up for the 3 minute approach. The scramble up to the start was fun as usual, and Tamber quickly led the first pitch up to the huge bolts. I followed her up and cleaned the few pieces she put in. We quickly swapped gear and I took off to lead pitch 2. I made it up through the slot and gained the cracks, when my right leg started to shake uncontrolably. It was like elvis leg, but I was just standing on it. I haven't been able to completely straighten it since I hurt it a couple weeks ago, so I guess something weird was going on. I waited for a couple minutes and decided to just finish up the pitch. At the belay I ate some gel blocks and it seemed fine after that.

Tamber followed on up and took over for the last pitch. I met her at the top and we started raping down... it was already starting to get dark. We reached the bottom of the third rapel just as it was getting really dark. Another fun after-work session at Index.

Exit 38 - Interstate -- July 11

I hit up Exit 38 with Joel, Jian and Jeremy for some climbing on Saturday. Everyone met at my house at 7:00am and we were off to the I90 corridor. Jian and I wanted to stop and get food to go on the way, but couldn't find anything open worth getting on 203, and ended up at the Safeway in North Bend.

Once we arrived at the Far Side, we hiked up to Interstate Park. After a sweaty 20 minutes or so, we were kickin' it in the shade looking at climbs to warm up on. Joel led Nocturnal Remission (5.8) and I followed. Jian had only got 1/2 way up on Midnight Scrambler (5.7), so Joel finished putting that one up too, and both Jian and Jeremy climbed that one... I didn't, not sure why but I guess we were ready to move over to the fun short 2 pitch route of Eating Rocks (5.6) and Insomniac (5.8). Jian and Jeremy went up first with Joel and I following up after. I let the first pitch so Joel could do the better pitch since I have led it a few times. While at the belay, we noticed Jian off route. He didn't bring enough draws to finish the route, so ended up at the anchors for Bicycling to Bellingham and brought up Jeremy to get more draws and finish. While he was bringing Jeremy up, Joel led up the pitch and passed them to the correct anchor. Jian went up next, and was about ready to bring up Jeremy as I passed him on my way to the top. It was a nice sunny day and quite hot at the top, but the views were spectacular. We rapped down the back next to the Block of Doom. It's a committing repel with a couple tough places where you tend to pendulum and it's overhanging where that happens. I went first and Joel followed without incident. Jeremy came next, and had a bit of trouble getting over the lip and fell a bit, scraping his leg up in the process. He made it down fine and Jian followed last.

We then headed up toward Eastern Block, but it was pretty busy from the middle on up the hill. I noticed a route right below on a wall and realized it was a small area I've never climbed before called Off-Ramp. It was only 4 routes (.8,.9 & 2-10.a), but all were in out collective range. We climbed all the routes there, with Joel leading the two 10a's, Girls Rule and Boys Drool. I led Hit and Run(5.9) and Jeremy did his first sport lead on Jersey Barrier (5.8). We all climbed all the routes and I will be leading the 10a routes next time I'm in the area.

After that, we went back up the short trail to the left side of EB. The routes in the middle and left of EB were being used by a "small army" so we just got on the fun traversing route, Impartial Eclipse (5.8) which I led. Everyone followed on that, then we set up a TR on Space Face (10c) which was fun. Joel made it up with a bit of struggling on the thin slabby face. Jeremy tried, but couldn't get past the crux, and I didn't get on it, as I noticed I blew out the toe in my shoes again! I've only had this pair for about 5 weeks or so... total BS. I am going to return these (Evolv - Defy) a to REI and not get another pair, as I feel they just don't hold up. We had an uneventful trip back to the car, with a quick stop at the river to cool off and wash up a bit.

Index - Lower Town Wall -- July 3, 4

I had Friday off, so I headed up to Index to climb with Dave for the morning. We met up in the parking lot and headed to the LTW area with another guy Dave knew (who's name I'm forge ting). We started off on P1 of Japanese Gardens which was pretty tough, but a fun climb. Next we moved over to Godzilla and gave that one a go. Another fun, uber classic route. I still can't make it clean, but I feel like I'm getting better at it every time. After Godzilla, we left the rope up and TR's Bat Skins (.11a). It was a fun traversing roof, to a bouldery crux move right below the chains. I actually had a lot less trouble on this than I was expecting. Dave did a couple laps on it, preparing for a lead on it soon. After that it was time to head out.

I came back to the LTW area on Saturday morning with Ashley and Joel. We has plans to climb the Great Northern Slab route (3 Pitches, 5.7). The scramble up to the start of the route was a bit spicy, but we all made it up with out too much trouble. Joel let the first pitch to the RR Bolts, which was very easy, basically a roped up scramble. I led the second pitch, which seemed to be the most fun. The pitch goes up into a corner, then into an awkward chimney move (we called it the beached whale move). Once through that, you gain two really nice cracks and work up towards the chains. The cracks take pro well for the first half or so, but once you get beyond the tree with a sling on it, the cracks get shallow and don't take cams well, so I had to find a couple good placements for my nuts... (haha, I said my nuts). I got the the chains and belayed Ashley up and then Joel. Joel led the last pitch, which has some fun run-out slab action at the top. We did a single Rap down to the top of P2 then a double rap down from there. There were about 8 people either at the chains or headed there when we rapped down... quite a Charlie Foxtrot (CF or cluster fuck for those who don't know the lingo). It was a fun climb and I look forward to doing that one again soon.

Exit 38: Gunshow -- July 1

I headed out at 3:00pm to meet up with Chris D. for some after work climbing at Exit 38. We met up at the Eastgate Park & Ride at 3:45 and were off. We had plans to climb at Gunshow, and after the short hike, we were there. We wanted to get on Endless Bliss(5.10a), but as usual, there was a party of two already on it, and in the middle of P1 no less. We settled on Elation at the Edge of Eternity(5.9) to the left and up the hill just a bit. I wasn't too worried about leading P1 without warming up on something easier, but the pitch ended up being pretty tough and I got pumped a couple times. It ended up being a pretty tough lead and I ruined my on-sight with a rest on the rope... weak-sauce! I brought up Chris to the chains, and while I was climbing, I guess Jim showed up and Chris brought him up behind. Jim ended up being a great climber (I've never climbed with him before) and climbed the pitch in under 2 minutes. He went ahead and led P2 which was good, as it was a bit spicy. It was sort of slabby climb on great rock, with a tough step up. We both followed up and rapped off. I think this climb was tougher than Endless Bliss, although rated less.

P1 of Elation

The party on Endless was still kicking and scratching away, so we did GS-7(5.9), a short fun route just to the left of EB. The crux of the route seemed to be getting into a crack and over a block. Chris led this one without too much trouble and I followed, cleaned and rapped.

Start of GS-7

While I was rapping and cleaning up the rope, Jim got on lead with Chris on belay and started GS-4(5.10b). When Chris and I saw Jim climbing and heard the grunting, we knew we were in for trouble. Once Jim was at the top of the pitch, Chris followed up and quickly got to the first crux, which was this open book sort of thing. He made it past that and then worked the second crux for a little bit before making it up. I was next and started up. I got to the first crux and had to really work hard to make it past. I was happy to be past that, but the second crux came at me all too fast, and I was already pumped. The second crux required a couple tough moves into a weird undercling move. I finally figured out the sequence with Jim's encouragement and made it up. I was pumped, big time. There is a second pitch that wasn't in the book, but was a 5.10c and basically a one-move wonder acording to Jim... but I can tell you the move was tough. Jim led the pitch with just a bit of trouble on the move, but made it pretty quick. Chris went next and struggled to pull it off, and finally came back down after 10 minutes of trying. It was my turn and I wasn't feeling great about my chances if Chris didn't make it, but I sacked up and gave it a go. After a few easy feet of slab, I was at the move. It was tough even getting into position to do the move, as you had to use and awkard undercling and bring your feet way up. The without losing balance, move your right hand to a very awkard sidepull that you could'nt quite get a good hold of, the move your left to a tiny crimp, still keeping balance. At that point youo had to get your right foot up on a chest high ledge and just pull up onto it. Much easier said than done, but on my third try I pulled it off! Up and over and soon at the chains. I was stoked that I made it. We got back down and I was very surprised to see it was already 9:00pm.

Chris on Belay, GS-4

GS-4

We packed up our gear and hiked back down to the parking lot, arriving at 9:30pm. It turned out to be a perfect afternoon and another great trip to Exit 38.

Exit 38 June17

I headed out to meet up with some friends at Exit 38 after work. I arrived at the Far Side Parking lot at 6pm and was at Interstate Park at 6:22pm. Not bad.

Upon arrival, Seton, Duane and Paul were getting on harness & shoes... preparing to climb. Before long, Steven, Josh, Marcin and a few others joined us. Duane led the .9 next to Ellies Sweet Kiss and I led the .8 to the right of it. It was a fun lead, with an interesting chimney move near the top... you pull up into it and kind of sit in there with your right hip and stem across with you left foot, then up and over a block. It's easily protected with a bolt right at the sketchy part, so it comes off pretty easy.

Next I TR'd the .9 that Duane had led. Last time I climbed that route I had some trouble with the start and getting up a blank-ish slab. Watching Duane gave me the beta to make it through the start easily and I breezed through it. Now it was time to step up. Everyone was looking at Ellies Sweet Kiss (10a), sizing it up so to speak; I decided to rack up the draws and give it a go, so up I went. The beginning starts off pretty easy and then gets overhanging by half way up the route. The thing is, there is plenty of bolts and many good rest areas as well as great hands. I just stayed calm and kept climb and before long I was at the final move to get over a roof, which was also protected with a bolt right at the crux. I clipped it and pulled the move... a clean assent. I was stoked!

After that, I ran laps on the .8's and .9 that were set up until 9:30pm, when it started getting dark. I ended up with 7 routes done, not bad for a few hours after work. I can't wait to hit it up again next Wednesday... hopefully I'll get a chance to lead Endless Bliss (10a), my next project for Exit 38. We hiked down by headlamp and I was at the parking lot by 10pm and pulled in the driveway at 11pm on the nose. What a great way to spend an afternoon.

Gold Bar Boulders - Clearcut June 8

Joel called me at 3:30 or so to see if I wanted to hit up the Gold Bar Boulders with him and Jian. Hell yea, no question! Velvet wanted to go to, so we all met at 4:30 at my house in Monroe and headed for GB.

The gate was closed, as I had read elsewhere, but we were able to take the semi-hidden path to the left of the gate and squeeze Joel's Toyota through there. The road up is in terrible condition compared to my last trip up there about a year ago. We headed up the left side trail and parked just before the end due to a road washout.

We headed to a huge boulder with an anchor on top so Joel set up a TR. The first route was about 5.7ish and has a few fun moves. I then headed up to a boulder just up hill from the huge boulder and started working a line up the left side. After a couple tries, I had Joel and Jian spot me and I sent the problem, probably a V0+. Joel sent it as well. Jian wanted to work the much harder right side, so we all tried that for a while... making very little progress. Joel then moved the rope over to the other arete of the huge boulder and we TR'd that route... somewhere in the 5.10 range we decided.

Next we headed up the trail to some more boulders with obvious chalk and route on them. Many are in need of cleaning, as the tops were mossy on many lines. We worked on a tough over hung route and I was able to link a couple hard moves to the top, but none of us could figure out the very hard sit start variation. We moved up hill from there to a really nice boulder with a couple great problems on it. The harder route on the arete had a very tough sit start that only Joel was able to pull off. From there you move up to some side pulls and a flake before a committing top out. The other route (probably V1) was a fun traverse to a top out which Joel, Jian and I did. Velvet worked the route too and made great progress, epecially one huge lunging move that she was able to pull off one time before she was pumped. It will not be long before she is all over these boulders. After that we headed back to the truck for a quick beer before the ride out. Good times in Gold Bar.