I headed out at 3:00pm to meet up with Chris D. for some after work climbing at Exit 38. We met up at the Eastgate Park & Ride at 3:45 and were off. We had plans to climb at Gunshow, and after the short hike, we were there. We wanted to get on Endless Bliss(5.10a), but as usual, there was a party of two already on it, and in the middle of P1 no less. We settled on Elation at the Edge of Eternity(5.9) to the left and up the hill just a bit. I wasn't too worried about leading P1 without warming up on something easier, but the pitch ended up being pretty tough and I got pumped a couple times. It ended up being a pretty tough lead and I ruined my on-sight with a rest on the rope... weak-sauce! I brought up Chris to the chains, and while I was climbing, I guess Jim showed up and Chris brought him up behind. Jim ended up being a great climber (I've never climbed with him before) and climbed the pitch in under 2 minutes. He went ahead and led P2 which was good, as it was a bit spicy. It was sort of slabby climb on great rock, with a tough step up. We both followed up and rapped off. I think this climb was tougher than Endless Bliss, although rated less.
P1 of Elation
The party on Endless was still kicking and scratching away, so we did GS-7(5.9), a short fun route just to the left of EB. The crux of the route seemed to be getting into a crack and over a block. Chris led this one without too much trouble and I followed, cleaned and rapped.
Start of GS-7
While I was rapping and cleaning up the rope, Jim got on lead with Chris on belay and started GS-4(5.10b). When Chris and I saw Jim climbing and heard the grunting, we knew we were in for trouble. Once Jim was at the top of the pitch, Chris followed up and quickly got to the first crux, which was this open book sort of thing. He made it past that and then worked the second crux for a little bit before making it up. I was next and started up. I got to the first crux and had to really work hard to make it past. I was happy to be past that, but the second crux came at me all too fast, and I was already pumped. The second crux required a couple tough moves into a weird undercling move. I finally figured out the sequence with Jim's encouragement and made it up. I was pumped, big time. There is a second pitch that wasn't in the book, but was a 5.10c and basically a one-move wonder acording to Jim... but I can tell you the move was tough. Jim led the pitch with just a bit of trouble on the move, but made it pretty quick. Chris went next and struggled to pull it off, and finally came back down after 10 minutes of trying. It was my turn and I wasn't feeling great about my chances if Chris didn't make it, but I sacked up and gave it a go. After a few easy feet of slab, I was at the move. It was tough even getting into position to do the move, as you had to use and awkard undercling and bring your feet way up. The without losing balance, move your right hand to a very awkard sidepull that you could'nt quite get a good hold of, the move your left to a tiny crimp, still keeping balance. At that point youo had to get your right foot up on a chest high ledge and just pull up onto it. Much easier said than done, but on my third try I pulled it off! Up and over and soon at the chains. I was stoked that I made it. We got back down and I was very surprised to see it was already 9:00pm.
Chris on Belay, GS-4
GS-4
We packed up our gear and hiked back down to the parking lot, arriving at 9:30pm. It turned out to be a perfect afternoon and another great trip to Exit 38.
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