Exit 38 - Deception/Far Side

I headed out on Sunday morning with Velvet and Gian to get in a day at Exit 38. We were meeting Damien and a friend... we were a few minutes late, but were headed up the short trail to the Deception Area by 8:45am. Just a few minutes walk brought us to the Substation area where Damien was already climbing. I left Jian with them and headed up the hill to Write-Off Rock with Velvet to get her on some easier climbs to warm-up.

We arrived to find only one other party of 2 climbing, which left us plenty of room to ourselves. First I set up Bu The Rabbit (5.4) which the book said has 3 bolts... wrong no bolts to be found on this one. I solo'd up it dragging a rope to set up a TR for Velvet. She sent it no problem. Next we moved to Flammable Pajamas (5.5)... luckily there were a few bolts on this route. Velvet also sent this one easily. Next we moved over to Bottoms Up (5.7) which was finally a good warm up for me. The climb was pretty easy, with one or two hard moves to get over a roof and some bulges. Velvet got on this one, and made it quickly past the first hard section and stalled higher up on the route. She didn't think she could do it, but before I was able to lower her off, she started climbing and pulled the move and made it to the top. It was a great climb for her, as she pulled through the mental crux and finished the route.

Next, I TR'd Primordial Blues (5.9) as Damien already had a TR on it and he didn't want to climb it again so it could be cleaned. This was a fun route with a tough committing start. Once up the crack and over the edge, the climbing becomes much easier. After sending the route, cleaning and rapping down, we all packed up and headed over to the Far Side area.

We quickly moved the cars and started up the trail, looking for Easy Street. None of us had been there before, but knew the general area well. It took a few extra minutes of deciphering the maps in the book, but Gian finally found it... just had to keep going up the main trail... no turn offs and you run right into it. I let the far right route (5.6) and then Velvet gave it a shot. She was getting tired, so she made it half way and decided she had hit the wall. Jian sent it too, then I jumped back on with rock shoes (I led it initially in approach shoes which made the slab a tad bit harder) to quickly climb and clean the route. Once I made it back down, we all packed up and were headed out, maybe to make a quick stop at Gritscone so I could try leading the 5.10c route in the middle.

When we arrived at Gritscone, it was a mad house of beginners running around, but nobody was on the 10c... nice, it's all mine. I got on my shoes and gave it a go. I made the route, but had to sit and figure out the crux. I will lead it clean next time I'm out there. Gian gave it a go on TR and made it up too. After that we were really outta there, headed for Issaquah Brew house for Kobe Beef burgers and fresh beverages from the Rouge Brewery (including Double-Dead Guy). The food and beer was so good... a perfect way to end a great day of climbing.

Exit 38 - Interstate -- July 11

I hit up Exit 38 with Joel, Jian and Jeremy for some climbing on Saturday. Everyone met at my house at 7:00am and we were off to the I90 corridor. Jian and I wanted to stop and get food to go on the way, but couldn't find anything open worth getting on 203, and ended up at the Safeway in North Bend.

Once we arrived at the Far Side, we hiked up to Interstate Park. After a sweaty 20 minutes or so, we were kickin' it in the shade looking at climbs to warm up on. Joel led Nocturnal Remission (5.8) and I followed. Jian had only got 1/2 way up on Midnight Scrambler (5.7), so Joel finished putting that one up too, and both Jian and Jeremy climbed that one... I didn't, not sure why but I guess we were ready to move over to the fun short 2 pitch route of Eating Rocks (5.6) and Insomniac (5.8). Jian and Jeremy went up first with Joel and I following up after. I let the first pitch so Joel could do the better pitch since I have led it a few times. While at the belay, we noticed Jian off route. He didn't bring enough draws to finish the route, so ended up at the anchors for Bicycling to Bellingham and brought up Jeremy to get more draws and finish. While he was bringing Jeremy up, Joel led up the pitch and passed them to the correct anchor. Jian went up next, and was about ready to bring up Jeremy as I passed him on my way to the top. It was a nice sunny day and quite hot at the top, but the views were spectacular. We rapped down the back next to the Block of Doom. It's a committing repel with a couple tough places where you tend to pendulum and it's overhanging where that happens. I went first and Joel followed without incident. Jeremy came next, and had a bit of trouble getting over the lip and fell a bit, scraping his leg up in the process. He made it down fine and Jian followed last.

We then headed up toward Eastern Block, but it was pretty busy from the middle on up the hill. I noticed a route right below on a wall and realized it was a small area I've never climbed before called Off-Ramp. It was only 4 routes (.8,.9 & 2-10.a), but all were in out collective range. We climbed all the routes there, with Joel leading the two 10a's, Girls Rule and Boys Drool. I led Hit and Run(5.9) and Jeremy did his first sport lead on Jersey Barrier (5.8). We all climbed all the routes and I will be leading the 10a routes next time I'm in the area.

After that, we went back up the short trail to the left side of EB. The routes in the middle and left of EB were being used by a "small army" so we just got on the fun traversing route, Impartial Eclipse (5.8) which I led. Everyone followed on that, then we set up a TR on Space Face (10c) which was fun. Joel made it up with a bit of struggling on the thin slabby face. Jeremy tried, but couldn't get past the crux, and I didn't get on it, as I noticed I blew out the toe in my shoes again! I've only had this pair for about 5 weeks or so... total BS. I am going to return these (Evolv - Defy) a to REI and not get another pair, as I feel they just don't hold up. We had an uneventful trip back to the car, with a quick stop at the river to cool off and wash up a bit.

Exit 38: Gunshow -- July 1

I headed out at 3:00pm to meet up with Chris D. for some after work climbing at Exit 38. We met up at the Eastgate Park & Ride at 3:45 and were off. We had plans to climb at Gunshow, and after the short hike, we were there. We wanted to get on Endless Bliss(5.10a), but as usual, there was a party of two already on it, and in the middle of P1 no less. We settled on Elation at the Edge of Eternity(5.9) to the left and up the hill just a bit. I wasn't too worried about leading P1 without warming up on something easier, but the pitch ended up being pretty tough and I got pumped a couple times. It ended up being a pretty tough lead and I ruined my on-sight with a rest on the rope... weak-sauce! I brought up Chris to the chains, and while I was climbing, I guess Jim showed up and Chris brought him up behind. Jim ended up being a great climber (I've never climbed with him before) and climbed the pitch in under 2 minutes. He went ahead and led P2 which was good, as it was a bit spicy. It was sort of slabby climb on great rock, with a tough step up. We both followed up and rapped off. I think this climb was tougher than Endless Bliss, although rated less.

P1 of Elation

The party on Endless was still kicking and scratching away, so we did GS-7(5.9), a short fun route just to the left of EB. The crux of the route seemed to be getting into a crack and over a block. Chris led this one without too much trouble and I followed, cleaned and rapped.

Start of GS-7

While I was rapping and cleaning up the rope, Jim got on lead with Chris on belay and started GS-4(5.10b). When Chris and I saw Jim climbing and heard the grunting, we knew we were in for trouble. Once Jim was at the top of the pitch, Chris followed up and quickly got to the first crux, which was this open book sort of thing. He made it past that and then worked the second crux for a little bit before making it up. I was next and started up. I got to the first crux and had to really work hard to make it past. I was happy to be past that, but the second crux came at me all too fast, and I was already pumped. The second crux required a couple tough moves into a weird undercling move. I finally figured out the sequence with Jim's encouragement and made it up. I was pumped, big time. There is a second pitch that wasn't in the book, but was a 5.10c and basically a one-move wonder acording to Jim... but I can tell you the move was tough. Jim led the pitch with just a bit of trouble on the move, but made it pretty quick. Chris went next and struggled to pull it off, and finally came back down after 10 minutes of trying. It was my turn and I wasn't feeling great about my chances if Chris didn't make it, but I sacked up and gave it a go. After a few easy feet of slab, I was at the move. It was tough even getting into position to do the move, as you had to use and awkard undercling and bring your feet way up. The without losing balance, move your right hand to a very awkard sidepull that you could'nt quite get a good hold of, the move your left to a tiny crimp, still keeping balance. At that point youo had to get your right foot up on a chest high ledge and just pull up onto it. Much easier said than done, but on my third try I pulled it off! Up and over and soon at the chains. I was stoked that I made it. We got back down and I was very surprised to see it was already 9:00pm.

Chris on Belay, GS-4

GS-4

We packed up our gear and hiked back down to the parking lot, arriving at 9:30pm. It turned out to be a perfect afternoon and another great trip to Exit 38.

Exit 38 June17

I headed out to meet up with some friends at Exit 38 after work. I arrived at the Far Side Parking lot at 6pm and was at Interstate Park at 6:22pm. Not bad.

Upon arrival, Seton, Duane and Paul were getting on harness & shoes... preparing to climb. Before long, Steven, Josh, Marcin and a few others joined us. Duane led the .9 next to Ellies Sweet Kiss and I led the .8 to the right of it. It was a fun lead, with an interesting chimney move near the top... you pull up into it and kind of sit in there with your right hip and stem across with you left foot, then up and over a block. It's easily protected with a bolt right at the sketchy part, so it comes off pretty easy.

Next I TR'd the .9 that Duane had led. Last time I climbed that route I had some trouble with the start and getting up a blank-ish slab. Watching Duane gave me the beta to make it through the start easily and I breezed through it. Now it was time to step up. Everyone was looking at Ellies Sweet Kiss (10a), sizing it up so to speak; I decided to rack up the draws and give it a go, so up I went. The beginning starts off pretty easy and then gets overhanging by half way up the route. The thing is, there is plenty of bolts and many good rest areas as well as great hands. I just stayed calm and kept climb and before long I was at the final move to get over a roof, which was also protected with a bolt right at the crux. I clipped it and pulled the move... a clean assent. I was stoked!

After that, I ran laps on the .8's and .9 that were set up until 9:30pm, when it started getting dark. I ended up with 7 routes done, not bad for a few hours after work. I can't wait to hit it up again next Wednesday... hopefully I'll get a chance to lead Endless Bliss (10a), my next project for Exit 38. We hiked down by headlamp and I was at the parking lot by 10pm and pulled in the driveway at 11pm on the nose. What a great way to spend an afternoon.