I headed out on Sunday morning with Velvet and Gian to get in a day at Exit 38. We were meeting Damien and a friend... we were a few minutes late, but were headed up the short trail to the Deception Area by 8:45am. Just a few minutes walk brought us to the Substation area where Damien was already climbing. I left Jian with them and headed up the hill to Write-Off Rock with Velvet to get her on some easier climbs to warm-up.
We arrived to find only one other party of 2 climbing, which left us plenty of room to ourselves. First I set up Bu The Rabbit (5.4) which the book said has 3 bolts... wrong no bolts to be found on this one. I solo'd up it dragging a rope to set up a TR for Velvet. She sent it no problem. Next we moved to Flammable Pajamas (5.5)... luckily there were a few bolts on this route. Velvet also sent this one easily. Next we moved over to Bottoms Up (5.7) which was finally a good warm up for me. The climb was pretty easy, with one or two hard moves to get over a roof and some bulges. Velvet got on this one, and made it quickly past the first hard section and stalled higher up on the route. She didn't think she could do it, but before I was able to lower her off, she started climbing and pulled the move and made it to the top. It was a great climb for her, as she pulled through the mental crux and finished the route.
Next, I TR'd Primordial Blues (5.9) as Damien already had a TR on it and he didn't want to climb it again so it could be cleaned. This was a fun route with a tough committing start. Once up the crack and over the edge, the climbing becomes much easier. After sending the route, cleaning and rapping down, we all packed up and headed over to the Far Side area.
We quickly moved the cars and started up the trail, looking for Easy Street. None of us had been there before, but knew the general area well. It took a few extra minutes of deciphering the maps in the book, but Gian finally found it... just had to keep going up the main trail... no turn offs and you run right into it. I let the far right route (5.6) and then Velvet gave it a shot. She was getting tired, so she made it half way and decided she had hit the wall. Jian sent it too, then I jumped back on with rock shoes (I led it initially in approach shoes which made the slab a tad bit harder) to quickly climb and clean the route. Once I made it back down, we all packed up and were headed out, maybe to make a quick stop at Gritscone so I could try leading the 5.10c route in the middle.
When we arrived at Gritscone, it was a mad house of beginners running around, but nobody was on the 10c... nice, it's all mine. I got on my shoes and gave it a go. I made the route, but had to sit and figure out the crux. I will lead it clean next time I'm out there. Gian gave it a go on TR and made it up too. After that we were really outta there, headed for Issaquah Brew house for Kobe Beef burgers and fresh beverages from the Rouge Brewery (including Double-Dead Guy). The food and beer was so good... a perfect way to end a great day of climbing.
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