I decided to blow off doing trail maintenance... I need to do a day of trail maintenance to finish my requirements to graduate the Mountaineers Basic Climbing Course. I finished all the other requirements last year, but the October 15th deadline is coming up quickly and one of these days I'll be doing it... but not this weekend.
At the last minute, I made plans with Hugo and Ashley to ride together to Vantage. The sport leading class was having their last field trip, so I figured I'd offer to help out again. I met Hugo and Ashley in the 'Quah and headed to Vantage on Saturday morning. We were a bit later than we planned, but made it out there by 9:30am. After a short lecture by Shannon, the class hit up The Feathers. We all paired up and started climb easy routes to warm up, then some harder ones. I mostly belayed new leaders and offered encouragement... I sent a few routes too. I did Don Quixote and the 10a on the other side of the tunnel from there... it looks so easy, but it's a tough pumpy route. When I came of that I was torched. I then got on Me Too (5.9) and I had trouble at the crux on TR. I was very disappointed at this, as I thought for sure I would be able to send that route. I always get pumped out at Vantage, due to my poor technique. I worked a bit on staying on my feet more and keeping my arms straight, but I need to work it in the gym then bring it out to Vantage.
We looked around for a better camping spot than the dust bowl, but due to price and proximity, we decided to just go primitive. It was a nice evening and the wind wasn't bad at all, which was a really nice treat. We had beers and a nice fire to relax by... before too long it was late and everyone was off to bed.
Sunday morning came quickly and we were all off, headed to Sunshine Wall at around 7:30am or so. The hike went quickly and soon we were looking up huge 100+ foot columns of basalt, with chalk smeared nooks and crack heading straight up. We stopped by and looked at Party in your Pants (PIYP 5.8trad) before moving along to Clip Em or Skip Em (5.8) to warm up. Josh led it and as I suspected, it was a tough warm up climb. I just TD'd the climb, as I really was looking for a warm up and was more focused on doing PIYP. I made it clean and didn't really get pumped, which was a good sign. Next we moved over to PIYP and Tamber was going to jump on and give it a go. She got about 1/3 of the way or about 30 feet up and Josh mentioned that he needed to leave, and she was riding with him. She needed to be back early as well, so she built and anchor and rapped off. I told her I would collect her gear and return it for her and went looking for a belay. Jim hooked me up with a belay (and good words of advice and encouragement). I wanted to do this climb, but I was a little scared, as the route is a column straight up and you stem in it and use twin cracks on either side. The good news is that the route eats PRO like Re-Run and you can place a piece at every cruxy move. I reached the crux about half way up and considered bailing, but I took a rest on the rope, relaxed and just went for it. Funny enough, the climbing is easy... it's the head game of leading on pro so far off the deck. It was a tough climb for me, but I made it. When I reached the chains I felt a combination of relief, excitement and satisfaction! What a great feeling, especially after being down on myself from the day before.
It was getting hot now, about 85 deg or so, so I decided I had enough. I packed up all my stuff and headed back to the lot to have a beer and wait for everyone else. Every time I climb at Vantage I get my ass kicked by routes a couple levels below what I feel my grade is. I realize this is just my lack of good technique coming out on the climbs at this area... long vertical routes, lots of crimpers and slopers. Plenty to work with usually, but I get pumped and can't hold on anymore. I have decided to get these flaws fixed and get a real training program going.
The ride home was uneventful and I was home relaxing on the couch by 5pm. Another great weekend with good friends.
The first picture is of a friend Henry climbing Party In Your Pants the last time we were in Vantage. The others are shots of Sunshine Wall.
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