7.10.2009

Index - Lower Town Wall -- July 3, 4

I had Friday off, so I headed up to Index to climb with Dave for the morning. We met up in the parking lot and headed to the LTW area with another guy Dave knew (who's name I'm forge ting). We started off on P1 of Japanese Gardens which was pretty tough, but a fun climb. Next we moved over to Godzilla and gave that one a go. Another fun, uber classic route. I still can't make it clean, but I feel like I'm getting better at it every time. After Godzilla, we left the rope up and TR's Bat Skins (.11a). It was a fun traversing roof, to a bouldery crux move right below the chains. I actually had a lot less trouble on this than I was expecting. Dave did a couple laps on it, preparing for a lead on it soon. After that it was time to head out.



I came back to the LTW area on Saturday morning with Ashley and Joel. We has plans to climb the Great Northern Slab route (3 Pitches, 5.7). The scramble up to the start of the route was a bit spicy, but we all made it up with out too much trouble. Joel let the first pitch to the RR Bolts, which was very easy, basically a roped up scramble. I led the second pitch, which seemed to be the most fun. The pitch goes up into a corner, then into an awkward chimney move (we called it the beached whale move). Once through that, you gain two really nice cracks and work up towards the chains. The cracks take pro well for the first half or so, but once you get beyond the tree with a sling on it, the cracks get shallow and don't take cams well, so I had to find a couple good placements for my nuts... (haha, I said my nuts). I got the the chains and belayed Ashley up and then Joel. Joel led the last pitch, which has some fun run-out slab action at the top. We did a single Rap down to the top of P2 then a double rap down from there. There were about 8 people either at the chains or headed there when we rapped down... quite a Charlie Foxtrot (CF or cluster fuck for those who don't know the lingo). It was a fun climb and I look forward to doing that one again soon.



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