I headed out to Banks Lake with Velvet, Joel, Jian, Hugo and ED. Due to some transportation SNAFUs and a stop at the store for food, we were on out way at about 8:30pm (4:30 was the initial meeting time). The drive out was uneventful (accept for driving around town twice looking for the place and getting tailed by the local Barney Fife), and we all arrived safely at Velvet's uncle's house in Cooley City (South Shore of Banks Lake) at about 11:30pm or so. After a bit of trouble finding the "hidden key", we noticed the front door was unlocked... lucky for us. We unloaded food, beer and gear and all had a few beers before unwinding enough to get some sleep.
We all got a leisurly start after a breakfast of fruit and bagels. The climbing area is up in the northern area of the lake, so we had a 30 minute drive with amazing views. We found a place to launch the canoe and kayak at a campsite with no campers. We got all the gear loaded and lashed down in the boats and headed off to find some climbing. We had 3 people and lots of gear in a two man canoe, so it seemed a bit sketchy, but Joel and I kept it near shore for the most part and things went pretty well... other than a boat wake or two. We headed south for a bit, then east into a narrow canyon with a ton of cracks to climb, although not too many established routes. The canyon opened up into a secluded cove, with some killer views. People partying and jumping off cliffs deterred from the ambiance a bit, but some of the jumpers were pretty nuts, and one guy slapped his pretty bad upon entry.
The first climb was a fun arete rated at 5.7 which seemed about right. It was a weird feeling to gear up in a canoe and climb out on the rock. Once you stepped on, there was no turning back... or at least it felt that way. Joel led the route, which was spicy due to the height of the first bolt. Everyone else followed the route without too much trouble. Hugo was also banished to Exile Island to take pictures with his nice camera. The "island" was a tip of a chunk of granite sticking up about 10 feet from the climb, which turned out to be a great place to get pictures from.
After everyone (Joel, Kirk, Jian, Ed and Jeremy who showed up with his girl and two dogs... one who could swim and one not so much) sent the first route, I moved the rope over to a 5.10b on a vertical face next to the first climb. This was a much tougher climb, but I sent it clean on TR. Everyone climbed this as well, with Joel and Jeremy sending clean as well I believe. I was entertaining the idea of free soloing the route, as it was very deep at the landing and I knew the route... but for some reason I didn't feel it. I now wish I had tried... really what do you have to lose? Next time I think I will solo the route.
We packed up all the gear in the boats and started heading back, as it was already getting on in the afternoon. The paddle and logistical issues of climbing out of boats took up a lot more time than we thought. Even though it was only two routes, the day seemed full with adventure. We got back and packed all the gear back up so we could head back to the house and have a killer grilling session, with some amazing meat and veggies! Lots off beer was consumed, but by 10:30pm everyone was down for the count. The sun really takes it out of you.
Sunday morning we made scrambled eggs with bacon mixed in, which was awesome. On the drive to the boat launch, we stopped at Roadside Rock (I think?) and checked out some of the routes. We could see many, ranging in difficulty, but we didn't have a book with all the routes. The Central Washington climbing guide has the right info, but we didn't have it. This will be a great place to stop next time. We all stopped while the group prepared to set sail, but Velvet and I headed off to Camp Craig for some ground climbing since she didn't feel that great in the boat... didn't want to climb out of it. I set up a few TRs and we climbed some easier routes in the 5.5 range. Velvet did a great job and made it up the routes. It was hot, but fun climbing. We stopped by the lake and I jumped on for a second... it felt great.
We headed off toward home in the afternoon... around 3pm I think. We took side roads around the backed up traffic on the 2 near Index and made it home at about 7pm. The rest of the group arrived within an hour or so to swap gear and pick up cars at my house. Banks Lake was a fun change of pace, and with a little experience and more route beta, I'm sure we will return.
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