Vantage [September 26, 27]

I decided to blow off doing trail maintenance... I need to do a day of trail maintenance to finish my requirements to graduate the Mountaineers Basic Climbing Course. I finished all the other requirements last year, but the October 15th deadline is coming up quickly and one of these days I'll be doing it... but not this weekend.

At the last minute, I made plans with Hugo and Ashley to ride together to Vantage. The sport leading class was having their last field trip, so I figured I'd offer to help out again. I met Hugo and Ashley in the 'Quah and headed to Vantage on Saturday morning. We were a bit later than we planned, but made it out there by 9:30am. After a short lecture by Shannon, the class hit up The Feathers. We all paired up and started climb easy routes to warm up, then some harder ones. I mostly belayed new leaders and offered encouragement... I sent a few routes too. I did Don Quixote and the 10a on the other side of the tunnel from there... it looks so easy, but it's a tough pumpy route. When I came of that I was torched. I then got on Me Too (5.9) and I had trouble at the crux on TR. I was very disappointed at this, as I thought for sure I would be able to send that route. I always get pumped out at Vantage, due to my poor technique. I worked a bit on staying on my feet more and keeping my arms straight, but I need to work it in the gym then bring it out to Vantage.

We looked around for a better camping spot than the dust bowl, but due to price and proximity, we decided to just go primitive. It was a nice evening and the wind wasn't bad at all, which was a really nice treat. We had beers and a nice fire to relax by... before too long it was late and everyone was off to bed.

Sunday morning came quickly and we were all off, headed to Sunshine Wall at around 7:30am or so. The hike went quickly and soon we were looking up huge 100+ foot columns of basalt, with chalk smeared nooks and crack heading straight up. We stopped by and looked at Party in your Pants (PIYP 5.8trad) before moving along to Clip Em or Skip Em (5.8) to warm up. Josh led it and as I suspected, it was a tough warm up climb. I just TD'd the climb, as I really was looking for a warm up and was more focused on doing PIYP. I made it clean and didn't really get pumped, which was a good sign. Next we moved over to PIYP and Tamber was going to jump on and give it a go. She got about 1/3 of the way or about 30 feet up and Josh mentioned that he needed to leave, and she was riding with him. She needed to be back early as well, so she built and anchor and rapped off. I told her I would collect her gear and return it for her and went looking for a belay. Jim hooked me up with a belay (and good words of advice and encouragement). I wanted to do this climb, but I was a little scared, as the route is a column straight up and you stem in it and use twin cracks on either side. The good news is that the route eats PRO like Re-Run and you can place a piece at every cruxy move. I reached the crux about half way up and considered bailing, but I took a rest on the rope, relaxed and just went for it. Funny enough, the climbing is easy... it's the head game of leading on pro so far off the deck. It was a tough climb for me, but I made it. When I reached the chains I felt a combination of relief, excitement and satisfaction! What a great feeling, especially after being down on myself from the day before.

It was getting hot now, about 85 deg or so, so I decided I had enough. I packed up all my stuff and headed back to the lot to have a beer and wait for everyone else. Every time I climb at Vantage I get my ass kicked by routes a couple levels below what I feel my grade is. I realize this is just my lack of good technique coming out on the climbs at this area... long vertical routes, lots of crimpers and slopers. Plenty to work with usually, but I get pumped and can't hold on anymore. I have decided to get these flaws fixed and get a real training program going.

The ride home was uneventful and I was home relaxing on the couch by 5pm. Another great weekend with good friends.

The first picture is of a friend Henry climbing Party In Your Pants the last time we were in Vantage. The others are shots of Sunshine Wall.

Leavenworth - Various [September 19-20]

I headed out with Joel to Leavenworth to meet up with some friends doing a sport leading class, which had been postponed until Sunday. We arrived Friday night and camped at BCCG Group Spot which is a great place to camp. We set up and headed for the fire to have beers and make some climbing plans.

The forecast was 40% chance of rain for Saturday... but it never happened. We headed to 8 Mile Rock, Joel wanted to lead Classic Crack. I had just climbed it last weekend and it's tough, so I was looking forward to taking another burn on it. Joel let it clean and did a great job... it's pumpy up near the top. I followed and popped off near the top, hitting my bad knee... ouch, that sucks. I finished up without trouble, kind of ticked that I actually fell. Here's where my weekend takes a turn...

We packed up the gear and all that and hiked back up to the car. We went to stop by camp and see if anyone had shown up, as we were expecting more people. After a quick stop at camp we headed to Forestland to boulder, and on the way I realized I think I forgot my shoes (Scarpa Techno - Size 11) at 8 Mile Rock. Joel pulled over and I checked my bag... no shoes. Damn! We were pretty close, so we turned around and headed back to 8 Mile where my shoes must be. We got there and my shoes were gone. A large group of "out-of-towners" were still there and said no one had come and gone, but the group of 3 that was climbing next to us when we were there. It was a younger guy, his Dad and Uncle (or Dad's friend, not sure) and his him and 2 dogs. They all seemed pretty nice, but evidently took my shoes, which I had left on the log. Bummer! After looking all around in disbelief for a while, I gave up and headed into town to buy new shoes at Leavenworth Mountain Sports. They were very cool to me and gave me a great discount once they heard what happened. Thanks LMS!

Now that I had shoes again, we were going to get back up to Forestland to boulder. We met up with Josh and grabbed a few beers to take up. We warmed up on some of the V0s and V1s, then moved up to the V3 I've been working on. They both sent it, I think Joel on sighted it. I was feeling inspired, so I jumped on and made it to the crux easier than I have before. Then I made it a couple moves past to a committing friction move that is pretty high up. I went for it, but didn't quite get there and ended coming off pretty high up... Josh gave me a great spot, but it still got to me a little. Since my knee surgery, I've been a little tentative to fall from head high or above. Well that did it for me... I was done for the day, time to drink beer!

We had a great campfire and keg of IPA at the site, with much drinking going on. There was also so much great food, steak, salmon, veggies garlic bread... it was all sooooo good!

Sunday was the Sport Leading class, which I was volunteering as an instructor. Basically I would get paired up with a new leader and climb with them. We headed up to Playground Point and climbed a bunch of the 6s and 7s up there. I didn't really climb anything worth noting. We headed out at 2pm and made it home before 5pm.

All in all it was a good weekend, but getting my shoes stolen did tarnish it a bit. I mean "bootying" gear left on a route is one thing, but taking a pair of shoes you know is someone else's and they WILL be back... that is just theft.

Leavenworth - Classic Crack [September 12]

I headed out to Leavenworth to meet up with Kyle and the group for a weekend of climbing. We stayed at 8 Mile CG and had a nice big site with access for 5 cars. We arrived on Friday night, later than expected, as Velvet was a last minute add on to the trip. We didn't do any climbing, just drinking by the fire... it was fun.

Saturday morning, Kyle and I headed out to do R&D (4P 5.6 trad) while Peter and Joel went to do Outer Space. Kyle and I styled the route and were back to the car in 3:05. We started at about 8:45 or so, so we were back to camp by lunchtime. We ate and relaxed... I had a couple beers, which hit the spot.

Next we headed over to 8 Mile rock via the path... nice walk. We set up a TR on Mickey Mantle, and I gave it a go. It was tough... I guess the beers were more of a detractor than I thought. Velvet got on it next and made it to the crux, but couldn't get past, and Kyle styled it. Next we did Deception Crack and that was pretty tough, as it was hot out on top of the beers. Once we did that, I moved the anchor over to Classic Crack and we gave it a go. Kyle and I both made it clean on TR, so a few more laps and I'll be ready to try to lead it, as the crack seems easy to protect. The Pics below are of me on Classic Crack. After that, we packed up and headed back to camp to get the fire going and get on some beers. Ashley and Hugo arrived right on cue at about 9:00pm or so, to add to the festivities.

We had to leave early on Sunday, so I took Velvet to XY Craig for a quick couple of routes, since she didn't get to do much on Saturday. She did great on the routes at XY. We packed up and headed home, missing the bad traffic on the 2.

Exit 38 - Deception/Far Side

I headed out on Sunday morning with Velvet and Gian to get in a day at Exit 38. We were meeting Damien and a friend... we were a few minutes late, but were headed up the short trail to the Deception Area by 8:45am. Just a few minutes walk brought us to the Substation area where Damien was already climbing. I left Jian with them and headed up the hill to Write-Off Rock with Velvet to get her on some easier climbs to warm-up.

We arrived to find only one other party of 2 climbing, which left us plenty of room to ourselves. First I set up Bu The Rabbit (5.4) which the book said has 3 bolts... wrong no bolts to be found on this one. I solo'd up it dragging a rope to set up a TR for Velvet. She sent it no problem. Next we moved to Flammable Pajamas (5.5)... luckily there were a few bolts on this route. Velvet also sent this one easily. Next we moved over to Bottoms Up (5.7) which was finally a good warm up for me. The climb was pretty easy, with one or two hard moves to get over a roof and some bulges. Velvet got on this one, and made it quickly past the first hard section and stalled higher up on the route. She didn't think she could do it, but before I was able to lower her off, she started climbing and pulled the move and made it to the top. It was a great climb for her, as she pulled through the mental crux and finished the route.

Next, I TR'd Primordial Blues (5.9) as Damien already had a TR on it and he didn't want to climb it again so it could be cleaned. This was a fun route with a tough committing start. Once up the crack and over the edge, the climbing becomes much easier. After sending the route, cleaning and rapping down, we all packed up and headed over to the Far Side area.

We quickly moved the cars and started up the trail, looking for Easy Street. None of us had been there before, but knew the general area well. It took a few extra minutes of deciphering the maps in the book, but Gian finally found it... just had to keep going up the main trail... no turn offs and you run right into it. I let the far right route (5.6) and then Velvet gave it a shot. She was getting tired, so she made it half way and decided she had hit the wall. Jian sent it too, then I jumped back on with rock shoes (I led it initially in approach shoes which made the slab a tad bit harder) to quickly climb and clean the route. Once I made it back down, we all packed up and were headed out, maybe to make a quick stop at Gritscone so I could try leading the 5.10c route in the middle.

When we arrived at Gritscone, it was a mad house of beginners running around, but nobody was on the 10c... nice, it's all mine. I got on my shoes and gave it a go. I made the route, but had to sit and figure out the crux. I will lead it clean next time I'm out there. Gian gave it a go on TR and made it up too. After that we were really outta there, headed for Issaquah Brew house for Kobe Beef burgers and fresh beverages from the Rouge Brewery (including Double-Dead Guy). The food and beer was so good... a perfect way to end a great day of climbing.