Holcomb Valley Pinacles [July20]

It's been a while since I posted anything about climbing. I haven't been climbing much in the last few months... a few times, but I didn't feel like posting. A few weeks ago I climbed a route at Taquitz with Brian and took David and Rod. We did The Uneventful... 6 pitches and about 900 feet. The crux pitch was fun and much harder than the 5.5 rating would lead you to believe... felt like 5.7/8 for sure.

This Wednesday I went to Holcomb Valley with Ceasar for a day trip. It was completely empty, which was great for us. The day was warm and sunny, with just enough breeze to keep it from being too hot. We warmed up on a .7 and .8 before moving on to the harder climbing. Ceasar was wanting to climb some harder stuff, so we moved over to One Armed Bandit (10A 8 bolts). There was a sweet roof to get past for the first crux and a fun face near the top. I had to take a both spots to work out the moves, but made it. We led two more 10a's just to the left and we both led them clean. Both were somewhat challenging, but fun for sure. Next we headed to do a 10b just around the corner. There were two right next to each other, and we decided on the route on the left, since the one on the right looked super thin and blank. We both led the 10b clean, although it was more challenging than the other routes and felt somewhat desperate in a couple places. We TR'd the 10b on the right and both sent it clean, but it felt harder than the other route. The lead on that will be exciting for sure.

New Jack City [Jan 5]

Brian and I headed to New Jack City for a quick day trip. New Jack is in the high desert near Barstow, which makes for a bit of a drive. It was fun to get to a new place and check out some walls that I've never been on before. It also has a developed camping area with free sites which is rare here in CA.

We stopped at White Face, which is the first crag you encounter on the way in. We did 6 climbs on that wall, including TRing a 10b and a couple 11a routes. One of the 11's went relatively easy, but Stemroids was a very tough problem and Brian and I both had multiple hangs on the top section, but eventully made it up.

After that we headed over to the Boy Scout Rock (north face) to get on some more climbs. I don't remember the names of the climbs, but we both led a few 9s and a 10a called Three Giant Steps which we both fired in good style. After getting in our 10th route, we called it a day and had a couple beers before loading up and heading back to OC. I'll be back to get on some more there soon...

Santee Boulders [Jan29]

I was unable to get JTree lined up for the weekend, so I decided to head to Santee for a bouldering session on Saturday. The weather was nice, and I sent a bunch of problems... some old and some new. I still haven't been able to do the 5.11 problem in one try I have been working on. After a few tries and refreshing myself to the sequence I can get it, but I've wanted to do it in one shot and will keep trying. I am starting to like getting out there and doing the solo thing. It is a lot less organized and tends to be more relaxing. Partner or not, I need to get on the rock...

Joshua Tree [Jan 22/23]

I headed out to JTree to meet up with Tim and Ellen for the weekend. Tim secured a site at Ryan CG on Thursday night… it was nice not to be all the way down at Jumbo for a change, so I headed out on Friday night to avoid getting up so early on Saturday morning.

We got up and did out normal morning stuff before heading to Headstone Rock (which was just a couple hundred yards from out site) to start off the day. Ellen was slow getting packed, so we pointed to the rock and said we would meet her there. She had trouble finding the scramble up to the climbing, which was a sign of things to come. By the end of the weekend I had decided her new name was train-wreck. I led a fun face route called the SW Corner (5.6 - 4 bolts). Tim tied in short and came up behind me after watching Ellen tie in. Without getting into it too much, there was a knot in the rope about 10 feet from the end that she failed to notice, so it kept getting stuck in the draws as she came up. Upon finishing, she said Tim had left a knot in the rope which caused all the trouble… so much for taking any sort of responsibility for herself. Funny that Tim made it up just fine. We then rapped off the back and headed out.

Next we headed to Hall of Horrors to get on a few routes that I had seen when walking around the area with Chrissy. There are about 4 routes right in a row that has a scramble to anchors, and two of the routes were 10’s that I wanted to try. First we did Ledges to Lawndale (5.10a) which was fun and then got on Buckets to Burbank (5.8) which also went pretty easy. Lastly we got on Pull-Ups to Pasadena (5.10c) which ended up having a very tough start, but we all made it up once we figured out how the start went. During this time, a few little incidents happened that I won’t go into detail about, but Ellen started earning her new name. It was getting on in the day and Tim had to head out to get his tire fixed on his way home. Ellen and I headed back over to the site and ended up getting on another climb right in Ryan CG on a formation called the Manure Pile. Tom Bombadil (5.7 Trad) was interesting with a very tough move getting around a roof to a face that didn’t protect very well. I placed a few nuts, but wasn’t super confident in them. After a take to figure out the move around the roof, I got on the face and made a decent go at it, then had a bit sketchy run out to the top. Ellen followed up with a few long delays to get the nuts out, but she ended up making it up just as the sun set, which was good as I was starting to get cold and a bit annoyed. The scramble down was a typical JTree route finding exercise and soon enough we were back at camp.

The next morning we packed up camp and went to meet a couple folks at Intersection Rock. A few more incidents happened I will leave out, but rest assured the Train-Wreck was in full force. We met up and ended up going to an area called the Cathouse located in the Lost Horse area. It was sheltered from the wind and nice and sunny. We had 5 people, so a couple of us led routes to get some ropes up. I led Felix (5.4 Trad *) and it was an easy fun route to warm up on. Ellen followed and then I moved the rope over to Limited Partnership (5.8), which was a fun double crack start to easier finish. I then did a route called Marmac (5.6) which was a fun crack. We used the same rope to TR a 10a (can’t remember name) then a route called Tourette’s Syndrome (5.10c) which had an insanely hard start and I was the only one to make the route. Nobody else made it past the first move. Then we moved over to the right side and did another fun route of which I never know the name, but it was a 5.8 with a couple bolts to start and a fun crack to finish. We hiked out and had a beer in the parking lot before saying our good-byes and headed home; after a mandatory stop at Starbs of course.

I didn’t include the details, but there were numerous incidents with the Train-Wreck not getting tied in correctly and just generally being helpless. I will not climb with her again, as she seems to lack the ability to focus on what she is doing. I didn’t go off on her to avoid a “situation”, but maybe I should have I guess… just so she would know to get her shit together.

Santee [Jan 15]

I headed out to Santee Boulders for a solo session. The weather was perfect, almost a bit warm... but for a Saturday in Janurary it was incredible. I worked on a few sick problems on the Ampitheater Boulder and ran into a couple climbers and hung out with them for a while. Then we headed to Lieback Rock and worked some really fun boulder problems. I did 4 or 5 lines a few times each and shreaded my finger tips pretty good. I packed up the pad and headed out, content with a fun day of climbing solo.

Mission Gorge [Jan 8]

Tim and I headed down to Mission Gorge for a day trip. We climbed at the Main Wall, starting on The Blocks, an easy 5.4 (trad) line on the left side to get warmed up. The climb was short, but sort of interesting because it was a bit damp. It's slick there on a dry day so I was wary.

Next was Susie's Wild Ride, a 3 star 5.9 right around the corner. I led it first and it had a couple tough moves but I sent it, but did have to take at the crux to figure out the sequence. Tim led it next and caught me by surprise when he took a fall between the 2nd and third bolt. He got back on it and sent the route without further incident.

Next we hit Crack of Dust (5.8 *** trad). This route was fun and had a tough layback section near the top. I had to take and work it out, but made it without incident. Tim led it next, but was a bit wiped out after the adrenaline rush from the fall... he lowered off, so I got back on to finish the route. I planned on not taking at the crux, but the layback section sketched me a bit and I had to take again. I was a bit irked, but I will send it with vengeance next trip.

We got on another route, but I can remember what it was, then we finished on Mission Control (5.8 ***) and it was a fun route. We hiked back down and headed back to Dana Point, via Starbs as usual.

Joshua Tree [Christmas 2010]

Day one: Friday / Xmas Eve 12/24

Arrived 7:45 pm. HVCG was full of course, so I ended up at Jumbo rocks site #2. Met Aaron & Mike from VA. Had Stone IPA and did a night scramble.

Day 2: Saturday / Christmas 12/25

10:30 and no Chrissy. Once she arrived, we hit Thin wall. I led Nothin but a Jtree thing. TR almost vertical & face of Tammi Fay Headed to town for wood, beer, food. Rain came during the night.

Day 3: Sunday 12/26

Wet and cold, cloudy. I made killer sandwiches for breakfast. Egg, cheese, bacon on begals. No climbing, so we looked at: Hall of Horrors White lightning Gunsmoke Chrissy left, solo till tomorrow.

Day 4: Monday 12/27

Packed up at Jumbo & hit sheeps pass to meet Brian and Dawn. Sweet CG, lots of bouldering in the site 10am slight wind, sunny, nice but a bit chilly. Went to freeway wall at lost horse Led smooth as silk, took a couple falls.

Day 5: Tuesday 12/28

Sunny, no wind. Beautiful day Went to hall of horrors. Led flash Gordon (5.7) in 2p Did Right On 5.5 4p Kevin and I got down at dusk, Barry and Lisa took a while longer.

Day 6: Wednesday 12/29

Woke up to rain. Went to Dennys in 29 palms. Did laundry in town and got a shower at Coyote Corner. Looked at gear in Nomad and got a few supplies. Got back to camp and had a snack and beer, hiked up Ryan Mtn with James Hamaker. Cold and windy out so we went to get pizza for dinner. Bed after dinner, to windy and cold for a fire.

Day 7: Thursday 12/30

Wind blowing like crazy, tent blowing. Checked the temp, 24f and gusty winds to 30 mph or so. Went to Indian Cove, did a few routes.

Day 8: Friday 12/31

New Years Eve Cold again, packed up and headed to HVCG. Headed to Wonderland of Rocks to lead Mental Physics. Camped in front of toejam. Had steak and pasta, then enjoyed staying warm by the fire. Climbed into the space station for midnight. Exposure with a buzz... a bit sketchy but a great time!

Day 9: Saturday 1/1

Belayed Mark on bearded cabbage, but he didnt make the crux... Cold as shit. Climbed Toe Jam, led by Barry. Moved camp over a couple spots for my last night with Craig and his girlfriend Cameron. Went to climb The Bong with Ashley in the afternoon, but it was all full with topropes. Was going to do a .7 next to it but wasn't feeling it, as the sun was going down and it was getting cold.

Day 10: Sunday 1/2

Coffee and oatmeal in the morning. Warmer morning today, but no one to climb. Got packed up and headed out by 10:30 or so.