Holcomb Valley Pinacles [July20]

It's been a while since I posted anything about climbing. I haven't been climbing much in the last few months... a few times, but I didn't feel like posting. A few weeks ago I climbed a route at Taquitz with Brian and took David and Rod. We did The Uneventful... 6 pitches and about 900 feet. The crux pitch was fun and much harder than the 5.5 rating would lead you to believe... felt like 5.7/8 for sure.

This Wednesday I went to Holcomb Valley with Ceasar for a day trip. It was completely empty, which was great for us. The day was warm and sunny, with just enough breeze to keep it from being too hot. We warmed up on a .7 and .8 before moving on to the harder climbing. Ceasar was wanting to climb some harder stuff, so we moved over to One Armed Bandit (10A 8 bolts). There was a sweet roof to get past for the first crux and a fun face near the top. I had to take a both spots to work out the moves, but made it. We led two more 10a's just to the left and we both led them clean. Both were somewhat challenging, but fun for sure. Next we headed to do a 10b just around the corner. There were two right next to each other, and we decided on the route on the left, since the one on the right looked super thin and blank. We both led the 10b clean, although it was more challenging than the other routes and felt somewhat desperate in a couple places. We TR'd the 10b on the right and both sent it clean, but it felt harder than the other route. The lead on that will be exciting for sure.

New Jack City [Jan 5]

Brian and I headed to New Jack City for a quick day trip. New Jack is in the high desert near Barstow, which makes for a bit of a drive. It was fun to get to a new place and check out some walls that I've never been on before. It also has a developed camping area with free sites which is rare here in CA.

We stopped at White Face, which is the first crag you encounter on the way in. We did 6 climbs on that wall, including TRing a 10b and a couple 11a routes. One of the 11's went relatively easy, but Stemroids was a very tough problem and Brian and I both had multiple hangs on the top section, but eventully made it up.

After that we headed over to the Boy Scout Rock (north face) to get on some more climbs. I don't remember the names of the climbs, but we both led a few 9s and a 10a called Three Giant Steps which we both fired in good style. After getting in our 10th route, we called it a day and had a couple beers before loading up and heading back to OC. I'll be back to get on some more there soon...

Santee Boulders [Jan29]

I was unable to get JTree lined up for the weekend, so I decided to head to Santee for a bouldering session on Saturday. The weather was nice, and I sent a bunch of problems... some old and some new. I still haven't been able to do the 5.11 problem in one try I have been working on. After a few tries and refreshing myself to the sequence I can get it, but I've wanted to do it in one shot and will keep trying. I am starting to like getting out there and doing the solo thing. It is a lot less organized and tends to be more relaxing. Partner or not, I need to get on the rock...

Joshua Tree [Jan 22/23]

I headed out to JTree to meet up with Tim and Ellen for the weekend. Tim secured a site at Ryan CG on Thursday night… it was nice not to be all the way down at Jumbo for a change, so I headed out on Friday night to avoid getting up so early on Saturday morning.

We got up and did out normal morning stuff before heading to Headstone Rock (which was just a couple hundred yards from out site) to start off the day. Ellen was slow getting packed, so we pointed to the rock and said we would meet her there. She had trouble finding the scramble up to the climbing, which was a sign of things to come. By the end of the weekend I had decided her new name was train-wreck. I led a fun face route called the SW Corner (5.6 - 4 bolts). Tim tied in short and came up behind me after watching Ellen tie in. Without getting into it too much, there was a knot in the rope about 10 feet from the end that she failed to notice, so it kept getting stuck in the draws as she came up. Upon finishing, she said Tim had left a knot in the rope which caused all the trouble… so much for taking any sort of responsibility for herself. Funny that Tim made it up just fine. We then rapped off the back and headed out.

Next we headed to Hall of Horrors to get on a few routes that I had seen when walking around the area with Chrissy. There are about 4 routes right in a row that has a scramble to anchors, and two of the routes were 10’s that I wanted to try. First we did Ledges to Lawndale (5.10a) which was fun and then got on Buckets to Burbank (5.8) which also went pretty easy. Lastly we got on Pull-Ups to Pasadena (5.10c) which ended up having a very tough start, but we all made it up once we figured out how the start went. During this time, a few little incidents happened that I won’t go into detail about, but Ellen started earning her new name. It was getting on in the day and Tim had to head out to get his tire fixed on his way home. Ellen and I headed back over to the site and ended up getting on another climb right in Ryan CG on a formation called the Manure Pile. Tom Bombadil (5.7 Trad) was interesting with a very tough move getting around a roof to a face that didn’t protect very well. I placed a few nuts, but wasn’t super confident in them. After a take to figure out the move around the roof, I got on the face and made a decent go at it, then had a bit sketchy run out to the top. Ellen followed up with a few long delays to get the nuts out, but she ended up making it up just as the sun set, which was good as I was starting to get cold and a bit annoyed. The scramble down was a typical JTree route finding exercise and soon enough we were back at camp.

The next morning we packed up camp and went to meet a couple folks at Intersection Rock. A few more incidents happened I will leave out, but rest assured the Train-Wreck was in full force. We met up and ended up going to an area called the Cathouse located in the Lost Horse area. It was sheltered from the wind and nice and sunny. We had 5 people, so a couple of us led routes to get some ropes up. I led Felix (5.4 Trad *) and it was an easy fun route to warm up on. Ellen followed and then I moved the rope over to Limited Partnership (5.8), which was a fun double crack start to easier finish. I then did a route called Marmac (5.6) which was a fun crack. We used the same rope to TR a 10a (can’t remember name) then a route called Tourette’s Syndrome (5.10c) which had an insanely hard start and I was the only one to make the route. Nobody else made it past the first move. Then we moved over to the right side and did another fun route of which I never know the name, but it was a 5.8 with a couple bolts to start and a fun crack to finish. We hiked out and had a beer in the parking lot before saying our good-byes and headed home; after a mandatory stop at Starbs of course.

I didn’t include the details, but there were numerous incidents with the Train-Wreck not getting tied in correctly and just generally being helpless. I will not climb with her again, as she seems to lack the ability to focus on what she is doing. I didn’t go off on her to avoid a “situation”, but maybe I should have I guess… just so she would know to get her shit together.

Santee [Jan 15]

I headed out to Santee Boulders for a solo session. The weather was perfect, almost a bit warm... but for a Saturday in Janurary it was incredible. I worked on a few sick problems on the Ampitheater Boulder and ran into a couple climbers and hung out with them for a while. Then we headed to Lieback Rock and worked some really fun boulder problems. I did 4 or 5 lines a few times each and shreaded my finger tips pretty good. I packed up the pad and headed out, content with a fun day of climbing solo.

Mission Gorge [Jan 8]

Tim and I headed down to Mission Gorge for a day trip. We climbed at the Main Wall, starting on The Blocks, an easy 5.4 (trad) line on the left side to get warmed up. The climb was short, but sort of interesting because it was a bit damp. It's slick there on a dry day so I was wary.

Next was Susie's Wild Ride, a 3 star 5.9 right around the corner. I led it first and it had a couple tough moves but I sent it, but did have to take at the crux to figure out the sequence. Tim led it next and caught me by surprise when he took a fall between the 2nd and third bolt. He got back on it and sent the route without further incident.

Next we hit Crack of Dust (5.8 *** trad). This route was fun and had a tough layback section near the top. I had to take and work it out, but made it without incident. Tim led it next, but was a bit wiped out after the adrenaline rush from the fall... he lowered off, so I got back on to finish the route. I planned on not taking at the crux, but the layback section sketched me a bit and I had to take again. I was a bit irked, but I will send it with vengeance next trip.

We got on another route, but I can remember what it was, then we finished on Mission Control (5.8 ***) and it was a fun route. We hiked back down and headed back to Dana Point, via Starbs as usual.

Joshua Tree [Christmas 2010]

Day one: Friday / Xmas Eve 12/24

Arrived 7:45 pm. HVCG was full of course, so I ended up at Jumbo rocks site #2. Met Aaron & Mike from VA. Had Stone IPA and did a night scramble.

Day 2: Saturday / Christmas 12/25

10:30 and no Chrissy. Once she arrived, we hit Thin wall. I led Nothin but a Jtree thing. TR almost vertical & face of Tammi Fay Headed to town for wood, beer, food. Rain came during the night.

Day 3: Sunday 12/26

Wet and cold, cloudy. I made killer sandwiches for breakfast. Egg, cheese, bacon on begals. No climbing, so we looked at: Hall of Horrors White lightning Gunsmoke Chrissy left, solo till tomorrow.

Day 4: Monday 12/27

Packed up at Jumbo & hit sheeps pass to meet Brian and Dawn. Sweet CG, lots of bouldering in the site 10am slight wind, sunny, nice but a bit chilly. Went to freeway wall at lost horse Led smooth as silk, took a couple falls.

Day 5: Tuesday 12/28

Sunny, no wind. Beautiful day Went to hall of horrors. Led flash Gordon (5.7) in 2p Did Right On 5.5 4p Kevin and I got down at dusk, Barry and Lisa took a while longer.

Day 6: Wednesday 12/29

Woke up to rain. Went to Dennys in 29 palms. Did laundry in town and got a shower at Coyote Corner. Looked at gear in Nomad and got a few supplies. Got back to camp and had a snack and beer, hiked up Ryan Mtn with James Hamaker. Cold and windy out so we went to get pizza for dinner. Bed after dinner, to windy and cold for a fire.

Day 7: Thursday 12/30

Wind blowing like crazy, tent blowing. Checked the temp, 24f and gusty winds to 30 mph or so. Went to Indian Cove, did a few routes.

Day 8: Friday 12/31

New Years Eve Cold again, packed up and headed to HVCG. Headed to Wonderland of Rocks to lead Mental Physics. Camped in front of toejam. Had steak and pasta, then enjoyed staying warm by the fire. Climbed into the space station for midnight. Exposure with a buzz... a bit sketchy but a great time!

Day 9: Saturday 1/1

Belayed Mark on bearded cabbage, but he didnt make the crux... Cold as shit. Climbed Toe Jam, led by Barry. Moved camp over a couple spots for my last night with Craig and his girlfriend Cameron. Went to climb The Bong with Ashley in the afternoon, but it was all full with topropes. Was going to do a .7 next to it but wasn't feeling it, as the sun was going down and it was getting cold.

Day 10: Sunday 1/2

Coffee and oatmeal in the morning. Warmer morning today, but no one to climb. Got packed up and headed out by 10:30 or so.

Joshua Tree [Dec 11]

Went out to Joshua Tree with Brian for the day. We climbed the only 4 pitch climb in the park, Right On (5.5 4P) and A Walk on the Wild Side (5.7 2P). Brian led pitch 1 and 3 and I led 2 and 4 of Right on. Pitch 1 face and slab climbing. Pitch 2 nice crack. Pitch 3 off-width. Pitch 4 face and slab with a good runout at the end. On A walk on the Wild Side, I led P1 and Brian led P2. It was thin slab climbing and pretty sandbagged. P2 had a 60' runout to finish.

Santee Boulders [December 5]

I couldn't get a partner lined up for the weekend, so I decided to check out the Santee Boulders. I've known they were there for a while, but never got down there to check them out. My first impression of the area was good, and I had fun checking out the place for the first time.



As I hiked up the hill, I was looking for something on the map that would stick out so I could get my bearings and as it turned out, Moby Dick turned out to be the rock that you couldn't miss. From there I was able to locate the Amphitheater boulder and then Bullethole Wall. The Amphitheater boulder was crowded, so I started off on a crack on Bullethole wall.



It was easy, but fun and I ran a few laps on it to get warmed up. I did a few other lines on it as well, getting shut down on the line with the actual Bullethole. I'll be back to finish that one. I noticed another sweet crack on the Beehive rocks, so I picked up and moved to get on that. It turned out to be a bit harder that I imagined, so I'm still working on that route. I did a couple other fun lines on the Beehive while I was there.

Next I moved over to Lieback rock. There were 6 or 7 fun lines to be had on Lieback, ranging from .7 to .11+. I ended up doing 5 or so of the routes including the .11- lieback problem. It took a few tries, but eventually I was able to send it. I ran a few laps on some of the other lines and did a few variations.



The sun was getting low in the sky and the clouds were starting to gather, so I decided to pack it up and head out. My first time at Santee was fun and I enjoyed the bouldering, which usually isn't my thing. The moves were thin and powerful and the rock was solid albeit polished. Many rocks had great landing zones and there seemed to be plenty of rock for the number of climbers circulating the area. At only an hour away and good quality rock, I will be hitting this area up whenever I can't get a partner lined up.

Red Rocks [November 26-28]

My first trip to Red Rocks was everything I thought it would be: amazing climbing in a beautiful setting. One small issue was that we scheduled our trip for the coldest weekend of the year, but when the sun was present it wasn't that bad at all.

Friday morning we (Brian, Dawn, Shannon and Siew Moi) left Brian's in Costa Mesa at about 5am and arrived in Red Rocks at about 10am or so. We got oriented in the park and headed out to get on Cat in the Hat (5.6 7p 1090'). The hike in was significant, but not too bad... took us about an hour. We geared up and I led pitch one. It was a bit odd for me for a few reasons. First off, sandstone has a much different feel than granite. Secondly, I used Brian's rack which has some different gear than I'm used to as well as having the gear racked on a shoulder sling instead of on my harness which I usually don't do. And finally we were using double ropes which I have never climbed on. All of this in addition with the cold weather made it a very interesting lead for me. I made it up the first pitch and built a gear anchor, not realizing I could have scrambled over a block and belayed from a set of chains. I brought Brian and Dawn up on the doubles "manually" as I have never set up my belay device in guide mode which would have made it much easier to manage the two ropes at one time. They followed me up and Brian took the second lead up a short pitch to a tree. We were behind other parties at this time and the waiting begins. Making things more complicated, parties were rapping down the route while we were going up, so it was a bit of a Charlie Foxtrot. I then go the next lead up a sweet pitch, 120 feet of sweet crack and face climbing with good pro. Once we were all at the belay, we decided to get in the decent line, as parties were lined up to rap off and it was starting to get late in the day. Shannon and Siew Moi joined us in the line to get down and we all rapped the route together. We hit the ground and packed up and headed out at a quick pace, making sure to not get a ticket for being in the park past 5pm. We made it to the cars at 5:15, but the rangers hadn't been by yet... nice. We drove out and crashed in Shannon and Siew Moi's room at La Quinta just outside the park. It was super cold, so this was a far cry from camping in Little Afghanistan.

The next morning Tim met me at the La Quinta and we headed off to catch up with the rest of the group in Oak Creek Canyon. We had planned to climb Johnny Vegas (5.7*** 480' 4 Pitches) and were trying to be the first 3 parties on the route. Brain, Dawn, Shannon and Siew Moi were about an hour ahead of us... they ended up getting passed by a couple guys that were running the trial. When Tim and I arrived Shannon was finishing the first pitch. There was another couple that was there to climb the route before us, so it was clogged up bad. If I had more Red Rocks experience, I might have looked around for another route that wasn't crowded. I can't even say I even thought about it, but I will next time. The sun was shining while we waited and it was really nice. As we waited the clouds came in and the wind kicked up. When I started the first lead, it was starting to get nasty. I arrived at the first belay after an interesting and enjoyable lead, although I found it a challenge to find quality gear placements. The group ahead of us was about half way through the next pitch and had the anchors used in a way that I wasn't able to do much but clip in with my personal protection. My second mistake now occurred. There were a couple cracks suitable to make a gear anchor, but I didn't even think about just building an anchor and bringing Tim up as quickly as I could. As I waited for the group ahead of us I started to get really cold, and by the time Tim was at the first belay I was damn cold and shivering. I got a belay coat from Tim's backpack, which helped greatly. Tim took off on his lead... he was quickly out of sight. A slight delay, and then Tim was at the belay bringing me up. I arrived to find 6 people on or around the chains. I got up there and balanced in a corner of the ledge. Rope pulls and rappels going on, more waiting. Brian and Shannon, then Siew Moi and Dawn did single rope rappels and then Tim went down. I followed last and quickly was down on the ground after a quick stop at the first belay. We packed up and left on the couple mile hike back to the car. We got a second room in the La Quinta and did some gear sorting before cleaning up for dinner. The Italian place near the hotel was excellent. After dinner, we made a quick stop in the Jacuzzi while it rained lightly. A couple beers, then I was out.

On Sunday, we decided to keep it simple and do some climbing in the Calico Hills area at the First Pullout. After a few minutes looking at the book and contemplating where to climb, we decided on Tuna & Chips wall. I set up a TR on The Minnow (5.8) and Shannon led Tuna and Chips (5.3 Trad) to set up a TR for a couple routes nearby. Tim and I both did The Minnow twice taking different lines each time as a warm-up. After that we switched ropes with Shannon and Siew Moi and Tim climbed Water Streak (TR 5.8). I got on the TR and decided to give the direct line up the Water Streak a go… damn it was thin and tough. I later found out it was only rated at 5.10a but it felt a bit harder than that. Then we got back my rope and I led Dolphin Safe (5.7 Mixed 110’) which turned out to be a sweet route. I got in a couple of pieces of gear down low… the remainder of the route had 6 bolts to the chains. The route was fun, but a bit run-out in a couple sections which had me paying close attention to what I was doing. Tim followed on TR and liked the route as well. While Shannon and Siew Moi got on Dolphin Safe, Tim and I did a couple more variations over by the Water Streak that were in the 5.8 range. After we were done with that, we decided to hit the Panty Wall before heading home. I elbowed (not literally, but almost) my way into line for Sacred Undergarment Squeeze Job (5.8 60’ Sport). I jumped on quickly as it opened up and sent the route clean… it was a nice line. Tim followed while Shannon and Siew Moi climbed a route a few over from us. We left the rope for them to TR it and I led the climb next to it, Boxer Rebellion (5.7 60’ Sport) and it was fun as well. I couldn’t really tell any difference in the routes rating wise, but they were both fun. By the time we were down, the weather looked to be coming in and the sun was getting low, so we decided to pack up and head for home. A quick stop for Starbucks led us onto the freeway and we were clear sailing… for about a half an hour. Then for the next 5 hours or so we were stuck in the infamous Vegas to LA traffic… every Sunday evening is bad, but after a holiday weekend is the worst. We got back to Brian and Dawn’s at about 11:30pm and got all out gear loaded back up and said our goodbyes. I rolled into home at about 12:15 or so. Even with the bad traffic it was an epic first trip to Red Rocks. I’ll be dreaming of sandstone and long multi-pitch routes until I return.

Joshua Tree [November 19-21]

Seared Ahi and Filet Minion

Usually I wouldn’t give food names as my title, but this weekend the food was the highlight. Tim and I headed out to Joshua Tree on Friday, hitting the road at 2:00pm just before traffic starts to become an issue. We had an uneventful trip out and hit the park around 5:30pm or so. We looked at Hidden Valley and Ryan, but all the sites were taken of course, so we were banished to Jumbo Rocks again. We set up camp and had a great dinner consisting of Pan Seared Ahi and grilled veggies (Onions, mushrooms, red bell peppers and sugar peas). It was amazing to say the least. Then we cranked up the fire and had beers while waiting for my friend Nick to show up. By midnight, I was ready to get some sleep and Nick was yet to be seen.



When I woke up on Saturday, Nick had arrived… late I guess and he decided to sleep in the car. Tim and I had bacon and omelets for breakfast and got packed up to climb. The weather was cold and windy, but we thought we could get in a few routes none-the-less. We headed out to the Real Hidden Valley to check out the Thin Wall, but when we arrived it was a mob scene… about 6 top-ropes set up and 30 people milling about. That’s out. Since we were close and nobody was on it, we got on Fote Hog (.6 – 2 pitches). This worked perfectly since we wanted to do some multi-pitch before out trip to Red Rocks coming up. Tim led the first pitch and sent it clean. It had a couple tough sections and he did a great job. I followed and was soon at the belay. We traded gear and I took off on my lead. It was pretty uneventful and fun climbing. There was a fun place where I had to bear hug 2 cracks to get up over a bulge, then a fun layback section near the top. Soon I had the belay built and Tim followed up. We then walked off the Sentinel and back around to our gear, packed up and headed to Intersection Rock.







Nobody was on Overhang Bypass (5.7 – 2 pitches), so I suggested we jump on that. I got the first pitch this time, so I geared up and led off up the gulley/crack system. It was a fun lead with a semi-tough move to get over a roof. It seems I didn’t extend my draws enough in the beginning of my lead… by the end I had to pull rope just to be able to move the final feet to the overhang so I could set up my belay. After building the belay, I had to yank that damn 70M rope up there which wasn’t much fun. Tim followed without any issues and was soon looking at the traverse he needed to do on his pitch. It was intimidating, but he pulled around the corner and was soon at the bolt before the slab finish. I followed the fun move and was happy to find a few foot holds that you can’t see from the belay. We rapped down from Intersection Rock and were unsure if we wanted to climb another or not… it had already rained a bit and the clouds were coming in pretty strong. We took a look at Bussioner located on The Blob there in Hidden Valley CG, but decided to hit it another day. We headed back to camp and started the fire and waited out the light drizzle that was coming down. It only lasted for about an hour or so then let up. After warming up a bit and having a few beers, we got on the food which was Filet Minion and veggies again. The Filets were amazing… they stole the show on this night. A few more beers and I was down for the count.

Sunday we woke up to a cold windy day. We were able to get some free wood from an empty site close by and had a nice morning fire to stay warm. It seemed a bit cold for climbing, so we decided to hike into the Wonderland of Rocks to check out the area and scope some future climbs. It was my first time into that area and it was amazing… a lot of rock out there. After a few hours out there, we headed back to the car and decided to go check out Gun Smoke Traverse (5.11+) while we were close. A short walk in brought us to Gun Smoke and a few people were there working it. We talked a bit and I decided to work it a bit. Man, it is tough! I got the beginning section dialed in up to the first crux area. I will hit this again and keep working it... it’s a good project for me. My forearms are still sore as I type this, so I can tell it beat me up a bit. We headed back to the car and headed for home… stopping in town for a hot cup of coffee on the way. Next stop… Red Rocks, NV!

Joshua Tree [November 13/14]

It was a weekend of firsts for me at Joshua Tree… led my first .8 and led my first .9 and took my first fall on gear. It was a great climbing trip for me. I drove out on Friday night to meet up with Tim at Jumbo Rocks CG. Got there at about 10:15pm and set up my tent and camping gear. I had a few beers and some good times by the fire, then to bed to get ready for climbing.

Saturday morning we were to meet up with Alfred and Ellen in the Intersection Rock parking lot. Alfred was right on time and Ellen was a no show. We were not sure if Ellen was coming and just late, so we decided to stay close and check back for her. First we jumped on Right Ski Track (.3), a perfect easy warm-up climb which I have led about 5 times now. After finishing that, we hopped on Toe Jam (.7) which is a fun climb and usually has a line but didn’t this day, so it was a great opportunity to get on a classic route without waiting. It was almost too good to be true, but around the corner from Toe Jam is Double Cross (.8) which is an Uber-Classic… always has a line and I’ve wanted to lead this for a while. I on-sighted it with relative ease and Tim followed. Alfred was going to, but Tim removed the top directional piece, so both ends of the rope were stuck in a pod away from the climb, directly on Route 499 (.11b). Alfred tried the TR on Route 499 but ended up not making it… he had a severely sore neck and really was not in good climbing shape because of it. I jumped on the TR and sent the route with a couple hangs. It was seriously tough. Next all three of us led Sexy Grandma (.9 bolted) which went without issue. It was my first lead at Joshua Tree at that grade, so it felt really good. That climb shared anchors with Band Saw (.10c) so we decided to give that one a go as well. It had a tough start and a roof section that was very challenging, but I sent it clean. By this time the sun was setting, so we wrapped up for the day. Tim and his Dad headed back to Dana Point and Alfred and I headed back to the camp site to eat and rest up for the next day.

Sunday we were up by 6:45 and had camp packed up and were heading to climb by 8:15 or so. We made a quick stop by Jumbo Rocks CG to look as some climbs, but it was cold and windy at the wall (which was in the shade) so we decided to head to the Echo Rock area. I had been wanting to lead Fun Stuff (.8) which is a very popular route and usually has a line… got lucky again, no line. I on-sighted it and it was as good as I thought it would be. Next we climbed an un-named .7 slab route that was fun and challenging. After that we headed around the formation to Bacon Flake (.9) which was where I took my first leader fall on gear. To get to the route, you had to cross a boulder stuck in a 6 foot wide crack… at the bottom 15 feet below were boulders and jagged rocks. While standing on the boulder you could get in a piece of small gear in a horizontal crack, and then traverse about 10 feet to the main crack, which starts off in with a roof section. I placed another small piece of gear (an orange Metolius Master Cam) and started up and over the roof. I had one bomber jam and good feet placements to the right, but as I got up on to my feet, I couldn’t get the sequence quite right and felt the bad thing coming. All I remember is saying falling, and then I was hanging from the rope. Good thing the piece held or a trip to the hospital would have been in order. I regained my composure and got back on route… got over the roof and sent the climb. It was a good experience to have finally taken the fall on gear and then getting back on and sending. Alfred followed, and then we had a fun JTree down climb to get off the formation. Next we jumped on Pope’s Crack (.9) and Alfred led that one. It was a very stout climb for the rating, with a tough section in the middle of the lower crack section. I was glad I didn’t try to lead it this time. Once we made it up that, we rapped down and left the rope to TR British Airways (.11d). Alfred and I both made the climb with numerous takes. It was the hardest thing I have ever climbed without a doubt. By this time, the sun was inching closer to the horizon, so we headed back to the cars. I bid farewell to Alfred and cleaned up a bit before heading home, which included a post climb beer at Intersection Rock. An uneventful drive brought me back to Dana Point… already looking forward to next weekend when I will do it again.

Joshua Tree Halloween

I went out to Joshua Tree with Chrissy and met Tim in a parking lot outside the park. No camping accept Jumbo Rocks and not many sites there. A quick set up at 12:45am or so and then a few beers before crashing.

First we hit Echo Cove. The plan was to climb some easy routes and set up a TR for Chrissy. I led Chute Up(5.2) and couldn't set up a TR due to the angle and nature of the climb, the rope was getting stuck. Tim led Helix(5.2) and set up a TR on The Sound Of One Shoe Tapping (5.8) and W.A.C. (5.8) and I did both. The were slab face climbs and pretty stout. Climbing these hurt Chrissy's bad ankle, so we headed to Atlantis Wall in the Lost Horse Area. I led Solar Technology (5.6) and Tim led Men With Cows Heads (5.5), both fun routes that were mostly face climbs with cracks to use for Pro. We bit Tim farewell and headed back to get the fire and beers going. After discovering a mouse got into the great apple pie we left on the table, we made a fire and had pasta for dinner. Bed early to get ready for more climbing.

Sunday we ate and packed up, then headed to Trash Can Rock. I led B-1 (5.1), which is funny because of the sand bagged nature of the ratings there. Chrissy made it up, and then we had a fun JTree scramble off the rock. I then led Walkway (5.4R), which had an unprotected crux about 10 feet off the ground. The move was fun and the climb went easy. Chrissy made it up without issue and I lowered her down to spare her the walk off. Chrissy's ankle was done, so I led Tiptoe (5.7+) which got 2 stars in the book. It was a face slab climb with one place for a tiny cam, then 3 bolts. It was thin and challenging, but I sent it in style. After that we packed up and headed home. Another great trip to my favorite climbing destination.

(pic to follow...)

Joshua Tree [October 9]

I headed out to JTree with Brian, Dawn and Rod on Saturday. It was a perfect day in the high desert. After getting Rod dialed in with directions to the P&R, we were on our way.

It was Rod's first day leading trad, so we headed to the Crows Nest at the Geology Tour Road area. It was deserted and had plenty of easy routes for him to climb without too much difficulty. We did a couple .6s and a .7 twice(including Trench Connection and Crows Feet), taking turns leading and getting Rod up to speed and getting his rack broken in. Soon enough the day was winding down, so we decided to head back to Hidden Valley to get in a lap on Toe Jam. Brian and I led that one, with Dawn and Rod following. It was a great way to finish off the day. After the climbing, we stopped in town to get pizza at the Indian restaurant... it hit the spot. Unfortunately nobody brought a camera, so no pics. The JTree season is starting... I'm stoked!

Malibu Creek -- Limping to Site 44 October 2, 2010

I headed to Malibu Creek State Park with Cesar on Saturday the 2nd of October. We planned on heading up after work on Friday and camping in one of the sixty-something campsites at thew park. As we pulled up at about 9:30pm we couldn't help but notice the sign with a bad attitude... ALL CAMPSITES FULL! Well this just sucks we repeated to each other... "damn, we should have made reservations" was another common thread of our conversation. Well we were 2+ hours from home, so driving back wasn't an appealing option. We could have driven back to LA to stay with Cesar's friend, but that would have probably led to excess drinking and a late start. I was also pretty much done with the driving, as the trip through LA, although it wasn't that bad, was pretty stressful with "skinny" lanes and lots of traffic. I suggested we check for a motel in Calabasas and we found our lodging for the night... the fine accommodations of the Good-Night Inn. After setting the alarm and enjoying a couple New Castles, we crashed with visions of on-sighting .12s in our heads. (Ha ha, more like 10s, but I guess you're supposed to dream big!) The morning came quickly and we jumped on the free "breakfast" offered by the inn... coffee and a few kinds of muffins, hardly what we were expecting. I was hoping for a waffle maker at least or some fruit... oh well.

We headed into Malibu Creek and got ready to hike in for some climbing, although I can't call what I did hiking... more like limping with trekking poles. I hurt my knee bouldering in the gym on the previous Wednesday, but decided to still go. I was dying to get into the outdoors (no matter what my condition) and I didn't want to ruin Cesar's day of climbing. I was lagging like a mo-fo... all my gear was in a bin since I was planning on packing up at the campsite the night before. Cesar waited patiently for me to get ready and get my limp on. Soon enough we were headed to the crag. On the way, I wasn't feeling great about my knee, and soon we arrived at the traverse around a small lake. Nothing dangerous or too difficult, but I was stressing a bit in regards to how my knee would deal with that sort of movement. Everything was going fine, although tentative, then we reached the crux of this deal which was a stemming move over water in a cove. There were decent hands at this point, but the thought of stepping across and putting all my weight on the bad leg had me thinking a bit. Cesar went first and offered to come back and get my pack in case I got wet. At least my phone and stuff would be dry if I fell in the water. With the pack off, I went across and everything ended up fine.

This put us at the crag we were going to climb at, the Stumbling Blocks area (I think, we didn't have a book). We scrambled up some rocks to where the climbs are and started getting ready to warm up on something easy. As we started unpacking gear, we heard a pretty stout rumble of thunder come bellowing down the creek. I don't think anyone around mentioned the first one or two, but soon it was apparent something was drifting our way. A few more rumbles then the rain started... a few drops at first, then it started coming down pretty hard for about 20 minutes. As we huddled beneath a ledge, we thought there goes our climbing... so much for 10% chance of rain. After the rain stopped, we waited about 30 minutes or so and Cesar checked some of the rock in the area... pretty dry was his summary. We geared up and jumped on a an .8 that was right there to warm up and get a better feel for weather this stuff was going to be climbable or not. I was anxious to see how I would do with my bad leg too. The plan was for Cesar to lead everything and I would follow and clean everything. (Thanks for doing all the work Cesar.) He made short work of the first climb... seemed very easy for the grade and I didn't have any trouble getting up this thing either. After I rapped down, I was ready to get onto something more challenging. Cesar jumped on the next climb (route and grade unknown, but maybe a .9?) and styled that one as well, letting me know it was a significantly harder. I headed up unsure what to expect, and made it up just fine... nice! We headed up the hill a bit and jammed through a short but fun .9 before coming back down and getting on a couple of fun but intimidating looking climbs on a steep arette (grade .7 and .8 I think). By now the sun was back out and the temps were in the low to mid 80's... quite a change from the morning deluge. By now my confidence in my knee was in full effect, and I was ready to get these done. Cesar led the first one and did a great job... full on sun in the face and he had done all the business this day which can be tiring. I followed, and noticed there were some tough moves for me as the feet were wide apart at times, which was tough when I couldn't high step with my right foot at all. I was able to get creative and do most of the work with my left foot and just follow with my right. "Off Belay" I say... transition to repel and back down once again. Now the .8 right next to it... the start was a bouldery crux right off the deck over a roof, with the first bolt up there. Did I mention we were on a small ledge 15 feet over a rocky creek bed? Yep. Well Cesar decided to do the alternate start which leads to the second bold, then lower down to give the start a go. He fired it just fine, although commented that on lead, he might have second thoughts. He climbed on and got about half way up before having to take for a short break. I think the heat and doing all the work started getting to him a bit. It was extra tough, because when looking up the sun was directly in line with the climb which made it tough to see the next holds. He finished up and got lowered. I tied in and decided to give the tough start a go, bad knee and all. Luckily there was no move requiring a high step with the right, so I made the crux without much fan fare before firing the rest of the line. After coming down, we decided to call it a day. It was getting on in the afternoon, the next climbs were a bit if a hike away and we were both feeling tired... mostly from the heat I'd guess.

We headed back down and across the traverse, which was slightly tougher over the stem in this direction, but my confidence after climbing all day made it seem so much easier than the morning crossing. While hiking back we noticed campsite #44 which was about the closest site to the climbing, plus it was close to the mobile outhouses which made it the perfect site. Next time we will be making a reservation and staying at #44 for sure. Soon we were back at the car and enjoying the cold beers I strategically left on ice for us. I nice way to finish a hot day of climbing. The drive home was uneventful and soon I was dropping off Cesar in Newport before heading back to Dana Point. Looking forward to getting back there to camp in a beautiful canyon and lead some of these sweet routes!

P.S. - I missed a couple posts over the last 6 weeks or so. I went out to Holcomb Valley Pinnacles a couple times (two weeks in a row). Once with Brian H. and once with Cesar. I led some 8s, 9s, and 9+s over the course of the two single day trips. I also TRd a tough 10b/c which took me about 3 or 4 tries to get past the crux. I'm looking forward to trying to lead that one next time I'm out there. Word.

The "Real" FingerTrip [July 3]

So I headed out to Taquitz with Chris to get on Fingertrip (5.7 - 4 pitches) on Saturday. I was late getting on my way, so I ended up getting to the Redlands at about 8am. We got the gear sorted out and soon had Chris' truck loaded up and were on our way. When we got to Idyllwild, we had to go up the main street in town where they were setting up for the "big parade". Santa Clause was there... so that's what he does in the summer. Once we worked past all the distractions, we were soon parked at the trail head and getting ready for the 30 minute hike to the start of the climb.

Chris took the first pitch, since I had done it before. He did the original route, rated at 5.7, which skirted around a 12 foot section of 5.8, which I did the first time I climbed it. I didn't realize it wasn't 5.7, but it was sweet (as I remember). Once we reached the first belay, we were stuck behind a party of three... two sons and a father who had climbed there 25 years earlier. I had thought they were off route, but as it turns out when I did the route last time, Hugo and I were the ones off route. And for the harder, as well. The route we did was a mix of 2 other routes rated at 5.8 and 5.9 which makes sense, as it seemed a bit difficult for 5.7 climbing.

Once they were finally far enough in front of us (an hour and a half of waiting) I took off on pitch 2. It all went well enough, as I went up over blocks and traversed left on slab terrain (with no pro, but it was easier than it looked) and up toward a crescent shaped roof. I was supposed to stop at a semi-hanging gear belay, but ended up doing half the third pitch (sorry Chris), gaining a tree with slings for the belay. The rope was completely out and I barley reached. Back to the crux of the pitch... it was an under cling arching roof where you went straight over at the apex of the arch, without pro up above for a few feet. Before I charged it, I yelled back down to Chris to read me the pitch description out of the guide, as it looked very hard for 5.7 and I wanted to make sure I was still on route. It turned out I was on route, but the doubt was starting to creep into my mind. In a moment of realization, I admitted that there was no one to come save me and I had to just climb it. I remember thinking, "it's just climbing, so get the negative thoughts out of your head and climb!" Next thing I knew I was above the crux and running for the next belay. Chris followed up and it was then we realized I went past the hanging belay and stole the best part of the climb.

After exchanging gear, Chris took off for Lunch ledge (which was different than Hugo and I though on our previous attempt) and brought me up... we were only 15 feet below it. With my 70m rope, we could definitely string together pitches 2 and 3. After a slight Charlie Foxtrot at Lunch Ledge, Chris took off again for the top. I followed the easy pitch, as soon we were packing up gear at the top. We ended up helping two other groups find the 4th class decent trail, as it can be very hard to find until you've done it once. By the time we reached our gear at the start of the climb, it was 4pm and we decided we didn't have time to get on another one. I was starting to feel the heat "sap my strenght" (ha ha Chris), so we packed up and headed down, stopping in Idyllwild for the best Latte you'll ever find in a PO-dunk mountain town. Then headed back to Redlands (without hitting any deer this time) for a Eureka Burger. Another great day at Taquitz.

Taquitz

Well, I never did get my Joshua Tree post done. I got back from the trip and got laid-off the first day I was back at work, which got me a bit off track. Needless to say, the trip was unbelievable. Perfect weather for climbing, but a bit cold at night. I even had to get up at 4am one night and get in the car to warm up. The trip culminated with me leading Toe Jam (5.7)... I got a sweet video of it.

After being laid-off, I got into the gym about 4 days a week and started to get strong, but eventually my money started running short, so I had to move back home to So Cal and get back to work. This is good for my bank account, but bad for my climbing. I don't have a gym very close, but on the up side, I do have a beach 5 minutes down the road.

A little over a month after I was back in Cali, Hugo came down for a trip to JTree with me, but with temps in the 90's... we opted for Taquitz instead. We had a great trip with a couple hick ups, but fun none-the-less. The weather was really cold, so we decided to head to JTree on Sunday after all, but ended up getting hailed on in the desert in May... go figure.

I met Chris in the parking lot at Taquitz when I was there with Hugo, and we ended up exchanging numbers and got back out there 3 weeks later. We met at his house on a Sunday morning at 5:50, which required me leaving my house at 4:30am... ouch. We got up to the rock about 8am and were on Left Ski Track to begin with. It was a sweet climb, with almost vertical terrain, but never left you looking for a hold... they were plentiful. I led the first pitch which went quickly. He led the second pitch and did the "step around" move which really got your attention. I'm glad I was following the first time on that one. I led the third pitch after that which was pretty easy accept for one move above a bolt, which was all friction and had me thinking. Then a traverse to a tree ended the first climb. Then we scrambled up and around the back to the down climb. The book said it can be tough to find the first time... that's for sure.

Next we were going to do Finger Trip, but it was full with two parties waiting, so we jumped on Jensen's Jaunt instead. The book only gave it one star, but I have to say it seemed much more fun than that. He led the first short pitch, then I got the money pitch of the climb, a fun splitter crack with plenty of pro. Chris was up next and as luck had it, he got another "step around" move that was super exposed. He styled it and quickly finished off. I finished the last pitch, and didn't do the off width finish, instead I climbed out onto the face and took the easy route, although the pro on the face was weak at best. Another scramble up and down climb back to our gear to finish off the day.

We got a great coffee in a shop in town and headed home to get a burger. A few minutes out of town, we were talking about the day, when all the sudden, out jumps a doe... slam, crash, tumble... shake off and then she ran into the bush! Crazy... no damage to the car and I didn't even spill my coffee. My first deer encounter, hopefully my last as well. We ended with a great bacon cheeseburger and off I went on my long drive home. It felt great to be climbing again. (Sorry no pictures, I lost my cable to DL my photos off the camera in my move. I need to get another one...)

Joshua Tree Trip - Preparations...

It's been a while since I posted anything... mostly because I've have nothing to talk about. I've been in the gym at least 4 times a week, working on technique and general climbing strength and it seems to be helping. I have been eagerly awaiting the trip to Joshua Tree I had planned, and now it's only days away.

Now that I'm ready to climb, I still need to get ready for the trip. I don't leave until Friday afternoon (Christmas Day), so I have until then to get all my gear organized and packed for the trip. Today is the day I will start to get things out and checked off on my packing list. I still need to hit the store for a camping food shopping trip, including lots of chocolate milk, almonds, beef jerky, HUGE bag of Swedish Fish and what ever else looks good. I have to hit REI for some last minute things including tape... I'll be taking 4 to 5 rolls. When climbing cracks at JTree, tape gloves are a MUST for those of us whose hands are not made of leather. We will Booze up in CA, since their prices are quite a bit cheaper than in WA, but we will surely be bringing a couple handles with us.

On a side note, I did get a bunch of new trad gear to beef up my rack. For this trip I added a set of BD Stoppers, a pink tri-cam, 3 BD C4 cams (.75, 1, 1.5) and 3 Metolius Ultralight TCUs. I got a new 4 man tent for the trip as well (REI Half Dome4), my 2 man is a very tight 2 man and is not freestanding (which could be an issue in Jtree). The 4 man accommodations will be much more enjoyable for a week-long trip.

T-Minus 3 days and counting...

Vantage [October 31/Nov1]

A group headed out to Vantage to find some dry rock to climb... the rain in Western Washington sucks! Mike, Damien and I met up with Josh and Tamber in the Feathers parking lot on Saturday afternoon. The wind was howling, but we decided to get on a few routes at the Feathers anyways. It was Mike's first time outdoors (and in a harness) and we discovered that my old size large harness was just a but too small for him. We were able to make it work, but it was quite a fiasco... him sucking in and pulling the harness tight to give me enough slack to get it double-backed enough to be safe. It was probably a bit short and way too tight, but we kept checking it every climb. As we climbed the wind kicked up and got pretty nasty, but Mike got his first top rope ascents on a 5.6 and 5.5 on the north side of the Feathers. We were ready to wrap up and headed over to find Josh and Tamber working on 'So Funny I Forgot to Laugh 5.9'... Josh got pumped while clipping a draw and had to down climb, leaving the draw. He was pumped, so Tamber went up and gave it a go, but ended up not making it past the bolt Josh placed... it was windy and super sketchy. The sun was just setting over the ridge when I tied in with a certain amount of urgency to get this done and get the gear, so we could get out of the wind and get warm. I made it up to the highest draw and did a take so I could scope the finish and make a run for it. The moves seemed like they were there, so after my short rest, I made the last few moves to the anchor, cleaned up and got the hell out of there.

Now the fun was starting... we were putting gear away in the cars in about 40 MPH wind with stronger gusts. It was hard to hear and do anything, but we were trying to figure out if we wanted to camp there, stay in a motel room or what. As we were getting squared away and about to leave for Ellensburg to search for food and lodging, I went to open my door and the wind took it and blew it open making a horrible noise... WTF!! My door "thingy" that keeps your door from closing on you snapped off and door swung wide open, bending the edge of the door back... nice.

So now were on the way to get food and decide what were doing, and I get a flat tire on 90, 8 miles outside of Ellensburg. We get towed back into town, as I don't think I have a spare (turns out I did). The tire place isn't open on Sunday, so I'm thinking I'll be waiting around until Monday morning. WTF! Everyone is tired and hungry, so we go eat. I can deal with shit after that. Dinner hit the spot.

Josh, Tamber and Damien headed to the Motel to check on a room, while I went with Mike to check my trunk for a spare. After removing wood, camping gear and Josh's Keg I find that I do have a spare. After locating the jack and tools, we remove the lug nuts to find that the wheel will not come off the car. After taking turns kicking it, I decided to call the tow truck guy to help, as we all had bruised feet by now. He came back and had to beat the wheel for 10 minutes with a 6' 4x4 to get the thing to come off. Finally the tire was changed and filled with air (along with the other 3 tires that were severely low), so we were ready to head back to Vantage. Turns out the Holiday Inn wanted $140 for a room... F#ck Off! So back to Vantage we went... turns out the wind died down a bit and camping was pretty nice. I got to the "secret spot" (not in the dust bowl) at about 11:15pm. I'll be damned if I was going to bring wood and beer and not use it, so we made a small but proud fire and enjoyed a few beers before bed.

Sunday morning came in with a whisper... no wind to speak of. We broke camp and headed off to the Sunshine Wall by 7:30 or so and met up with Kyle on the way. Contrary to the day before the weather was perfect. Josh led Chossmaster to warm up, and Tamber and I headed for Peaceful Warrior for our first route. She led it in style, I pulled the rope and led it as well. Mike went after that and did a fine job on his first Sunshine Wall route. After that I moved over a couple routes to 7 Virgins and a Mule (5.7 trad). While I was half was up the chimney I head tale of Josh taking a good leader fall while on Boshido (10b)... good on you for sacking up on a tough route and climbing hard. I wasn't finished with my chimney when Josh and Tamber headed off to Seattle to catch a plane. Finally I made it to the top, but no anchors... There was a set I could reach for Narlux (a route 2 over from 7Vs) which I used and lowered off of, so we could TR it after Damien and Kyle climbed 7Vs. They both climbed it without much trouble. We then took a burn on Narlux, which is a pumpy route with fun climbing up an arete. I took a few rests, but didn't ever find any moves that were too hard for me... just a fitness issue to lead that one I think.

On the way out, we stopped at the Feathers again for a couple last routes before going home. I was already pretty happy with my day, but ended up leading a couple more 5.7s including the Becky Route which was fun and seemed easy. Mike got back on the 5.7 that he lowered off the day before, and got a clean top rope send on that one too. After the great day of climbing, we headed to the town of Vantage and got dinner at the greasy spoon next to the gas station. Crappy food, but good company made for a fun meal. We sent Kyle off headed east and took off in our direction. Traffic was good headed back over the pass, and we were back home a 7:00pm. All I can say is thankfully Sunday was a perfect day climbing which made up for Saturday and the follies it brought.