Red Rocks [November 26-28]

My first trip to Red Rocks was everything I thought it would be: amazing climbing in a beautiful setting. One small issue was that we scheduled our trip for the coldest weekend of the year, but when the sun was present it wasn't that bad at all.

Friday morning we (Brian, Dawn, Shannon and Siew Moi) left Brian's in Costa Mesa at about 5am and arrived in Red Rocks at about 10am or so. We got oriented in the park and headed out to get on Cat in the Hat (5.6 7p 1090'). The hike in was significant, but not too bad... took us about an hour. We geared up and I led pitch one. It was a bit odd for me for a few reasons. First off, sandstone has a much different feel than granite. Secondly, I used Brian's rack which has some different gear than I'm used to as well as having the gear racked on a shoulder sling instead of on my harness which I usually don't do. And finally we were using double ropes which I have never climbed on. All of this in addition with the cold weather made it a very interesting lead for me. I made it up the first pitch and built a gear anchor, not realizing I could have scrambled over a block and belayed from a set of chains. I brought Brian and Dawn up on the doubles "manually" as I have never set up my belay device in guide mode which would have made it much easier to manage the two ropes at one time. They followed me up and Brian took the second lead up a short pitch to a tree. We were behind other parties at this time and the waiting begins. Making things more complicated, parties were rapping down the route while we were going up, so it was a bit of a Charlie Foxtrot. I then go the next lead up a sweet pitch, 120 feet of sweet crack and face climbing with good pro. Once we were all at the belay, we decided to get in the decent line, as parties were lined up to rap off and it was starting to get late in the day. Shannon and Siew Moi joined us in the line to get down and we all rapped the route together. We hit the ground and packed up and headed out at a quick pace, making sure to not get a ticket for being in the park past 5pm. We made it to the cars at 5:15, but the rangers hadn't been by yet... nice. We drove out and crashed in Shannon and Siew Moi's room at La Quinta just outside the park. It was super cold, so this was a far cry from camping in Little Afghanistan.

The next morning Tim met me at the La Quinta and we headed off to catch up with the rest of the group in Oak Creek Canyon. We had planned to climb Johnny Vegas (5.7*** 480' 4 Pitches) and were trying to be the first 3 parties on the route. Brain, Dawn, Shannon and Siew Moi were about an hour ahead of us... they ended up getting passed by a couple guys that were running the trial. When Tim and I arrived Shannon was finishing the first pitch. There was another couple that was there to climb the route before us, so it was clogged up bad. If I had more Red Rocks experience, I might have looked around for another route that wasn't crowded. I can't even say I even thought about it, but I will next time. The sun was shining while we waited and it was really nice. As we waited the clouds came in and the wind kicked up. When I started the first lead, it was starting to get nasty. I arrived at the first belay after an interesting and enjoyable lead, although I found it a challenge to find quality gear placements. The group ahead of us was about half way through the next pitch and had the anchors used in a way that I wasn't able to do much but clip in with my personal protection. My second mistake now occurred. There were a couple cracks suitable to make a gear anchor, but I didn't even think about just building an anchor and bringing Tim up as quickly as I could. As I waited for the group ahead of us I started to get really cold, and by the time Tim was at the first belay I was damn cold and shivering. I got a belay coat from Tim's backpack, which helped greatly. Tim took off on his lead... he was quickly out of sight. A slight delay, and then Tim was at the belay bringing me up. I arrived to find 6 people on or around the chains. I got up there and balanced in a corner of the ledge. Rope pulls and rappels going on, more waiting. Brian and Shannon, then Siew Moi and Dawn did single rope rappels and then Tim went down. I followed last and quickly was down on the ground after a quick stop at the first belay. We packed up and left on the couple mile hike back to the car. We got a second room in the La Quinta and did some gear sorting before cleaning up for dinner. The Italian place near the hotel was excellent. After dinner, we made a quick stop in the Jacuzzi while it rained lightly. A couple beers, then I was out.

On Sunday, we decided to keep it simple and do some climbing in the Calico Hills area at the First Pullout. After a few minutes looking at the book and contemplating where to climb, we decided on Tuna & Chips wall. I set up a TR on The Minnow (5.8) and Shannon led Tuna and Chips (5.3 Trad) to set up a TR for a couple routes nearby. Tim and I both did The Minnow twice taking different lines each time as a warm-up. After that we switched ropes with Shannon and Siew Moi and Tim climbed Water Streak (TR 5.8). I got on the TR and decided to give the direct line up the Water Streak a go… damn it was thin and tough. I later found out it was only rated at 5.10a but it felt a bit harder than that. Then we got back my rope and I led Dolphin Safe (5.7 Mixed 110’) which turned out to be a sweet route. I got in a couple of pieces of gear down low… the remainder of the route had 6 bolts to the chains. The route was fun, but a bit run-out in a couple sections which had me paying close attention to what I was doing. Tim followed on TR and liked the route as well. While Shannon and Siew Moi got on Dolphin Safe, Tim and I did a couple more variations over by the Water Streak that were in the 5.8 range. After we were done with that, we decided to hit the Panty Wall before heading home. I elbowed (not literally, but almost) my way into line for Sacred Undergarment Squeeze Job (5.8 60’ Sport). I jumped on quickly as it opened up and sent the route clean… it was a nice line. Tim followed while Shannon and Siew Moi climbed a route a few over from us. We left the rope for them to TR it and I led the climb next to it, Boxer Rebellion (5.7 60’ Sport) and it was fun as well. I couldn’t really tell any difference in the routes rating wise, but they were both fun. By the time we were down, the weather looked to be coming in and the sun was getting low, so we decided to pack up and head for home. A quick stop for Starbucks led us onto the freeway and we were clear sailing… for about a half an hour. Then for the next 5 hours or so we were stuck in the infamous Vegas to LA traffic… every Sunday evening is bad, but after a holiday weekend is the worst. We got back to Brian and Dawn’s at about 11:30pm and got all out gear loaded back up and said our goodbyes. I rolled into home at about 12:15 or so. Even with the bad traffic it was an epic first trip to Red Rocks. I’ll be dreaming of sandstone and long multi-pitch routes until I return.